Idle issues
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Novice
Joined: Jun 2017
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From: Brewster, ny
Idle issues
Hello from a longtime lurker. 2000 Carbureted Fatboy purchased with 27Kmiles. Always started and ran fine. Lately it has been hard to start and stalls at stops when completely warmed up. The idle is rough and drops after a minute or two and sometimes will surge back up or just die. Tried the propane, the starter fluid and the wd40 and can't find an intake leak cleaned the carb in the spring new plugs last week.
It has an aftermarket air cleaner (stage 1 -ish) v&h longshots with DK Lollipops.
I'm starting to wonder if should consider an aftermarket ignition module like the SE http://www.ebay.com/itm/screamin-eag...xZvDC-&vxp=mtr
or maybe new carb?
Any thoughts?
It has an aftermarket air cleaner (stage 1 -ish) v&h longshots with DK Lollipops.
I'm starting to wonder if should consider an aftermarket ignition module like the SE http://www.ebay.com/itm/screamin-eag...xZvDC-&vxp=mtr
or maybe new carb?
Any thoughts?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,159
Likes: 11,249
From: San Diego, CA
Just throwing parts at a problem can get expensive, unless you get lucky and changed the offending part first try.... I'd check the things I can before throwing money at new parts..
Sounds like you have the exhaust/intake leaks ruled out....
Your carb is probably a CV40, pretty simple to check-out and/or rebuild yourself...
Also on the fuel side, make sure there's not a problem with the petcock/ petcock screen in the tank...You should have the vacuum activated petcock, which has a vacuum line/diaphragm that could cause issues at idle...
I think you also have cam & crank position sensors that could cause issues if failing....
If you have the shop manual, and the electrical manual, you should be able to track it down... and hopefully someone will post a similar experience/fix...
Good luck..
Sounds like you have the exhaust/intake leaks ruled out....
Your carb is probably a CV40, pretty simple to check-out and/or rebuild yourself...
Also on the fuel side, make sure there's not a problem with the petcock/ petcock screen in the tank...You should have the vacuum activated petcock, which has a vacuum line/diaphragm that could cause issues at idle...
I think you also have cam & crank position sensors that could cause issues if failing....
If you have the shop manual, and the electrical manual, you should be able to track it down... and hopefully someone will post a similar experience/fix...
Good luck..
Last edited by hattitude; Oct 1, 2017 at 07:25 PM.
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From: Brewster, ny
Thanks so much hattitude! I blocked off the petcock and plugged the vacuum line in the spring when I had issues as well as replacing the crank sensor (probably needlessly).
So I'm left with carb and timing. I can strip the carb again and see what's what.
Some people like the SE module. If it's a worthwhile upgrade on it's own I was thinking it might smooth out the idle.
Thanks for the input
This is my first bike with an ignition module so i'm a little lost when it comes to timing.
So I'm left with carb and timing. I can strip the carb again and see what's what.
Some people like the SE module. If it's a worthwhile upgrade on it's own I was thinking it might smooth out the idle.
Thanks for the input
This is my first bike with an ignition module so i'm a little lost when it comes to timing.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,159
Likes: 11,249
From: San Diego, CA
Thanks so much hattitude! I blocked off the petcock and plugged the vacuum line in the spring when I had issues as well as replacing the crank sensor (probably needlessly).
So I'm left with carb and timing. I can strip the carb again and see what's what.
Some people like the SE module. If it's a worthwhile upgrade on it's own I was thinking it might smooth out the idle.
Thanks for the input
This is my first bike with an ignition module so i'm a little lost when it comes to timing.
So I'm left with carb and timing. I can strip the carb again and see what's what.
Some people like the SE module. If it's a worthwhile upgrade on it's own I was thinking it might smooth out the idle.
Thanks for the input
This is my first bike with an ignition module so i'm a little lost when it comes to timing.
I hate to mention it... but... have you looked IN the gas tank?
I recently bought an '01 Springer (w/carb) with 10K miles... As I was going through the bike, fixing all the issues... I found the gas tank lining was peeling. There were large pieces of lining floating around in the gas tank. While doing my research on how to fix it, I found it can cause erratic running issues as they block and unblock the screen to the fuel petcock..... It's a bitch to fix, not really hard, just time consuming... So I hope that's not it... but something to look at....
I looked into the ignition modules, too. I'm on the fence about leaving the Springer stock or when checking the cam tensioners, going with a stage II or III.... Yeah, I have the sickness.... My other two bikes are EFI, and I have a PowerVision tuner for them, while that doesn't help here... I've learned while playing with tunes for EFI, that HD usually has pretty good OEM timing tables if you keep it stock or stage I..... for a sudden change in running, barring any other changes, I would think your ignition module would have to be failing, I guess it could happen... Even if it's OK, it's always good to have options...
I read a lot of positive comments about the Daytona Twin Tec ignition modules for Harley carbureted engines... You can set it for stock timing or many different combinations if you start to add modifications... might be worth a look if you're gonna switch ignition modules...
http://www.daytona-twintec.com/products_carb.html
Good luck... please post what the problem is when you get it fixed...
Last edited by hattitude; Oct 1, 2017 at 09:02 PM.
Thread Starter
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Novice
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From: Brewster, ny
Ran some carb cleaner through it and adjusted the mix (I think I should put the 48 in) and it idles pretty well - still drops down a little and then recovers and had a few pops and farts while riding it to get it to temp.
Am I wrong to think it should return to idle immediately and stay there? With stage 1 and longshots is an occasional carb fart and pop from the tailpipes to be expected? It makes good power and rides nice since I put the lollipops in. Maybe I'm just letting my OCD get the best of me.
Am I wrong to think it should return to idle immediately and stay there? With stage 1 and longshots is an occasional carb fart and pop from the tailpipes to be expected? It makes good power and rides nice since I put the lollipops in. Maybe I'm just letting my OCD get the best of me.
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From: Brewster, ny
Thanks Strych9. That's pretty much where I'm at I guess. I gave it a good cleaning in the spring (or maybe not). I was thinking I might send it to the guy on ebay that'll polish it up and everything for $200. I want a Super E but that's more than I can spend unless it comes with divorce papers.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,159
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From: San Diego, CA
Thanks Strych9. That's pretty much where I'm at I guess. I gave it a good cleaning in the spring (or maybe not). I was thinking I might send it to the guy on ebay that'll polish it up and everything for $200. I want a Super E but that's more than I can spend unless it comes with divorce papers.
You really can't tell if a carb is dialed in until it's up to temp and the enrichment is pushed in all the way.... If it's still a little cold, or you're still using a little of the enrichment, disregard what you hear....
Generally speaking, the mixture screw will be between 1 3/4 and 3 turns on a good running big twin with the CV40.. if you are over 3 turns on the mixture to get smooth running, you should bump up the slow jet from 45 to 46 or 48...
The OEM needle is pretty lean in the first 1/3 to 1/2 throttle where most EPA tests are done... Sometimes, just using the mixture screw will get you running well, but still a bunch of popping on decel...
Two fixes... old timers used the N65 needle from a Sportster carb. It is richer in the lower 1/3 throttle, but won't kill MPGs. I have that in my '01, all stock jets and no internal mods, and it's running great except for a little decel popping. Last tank w/70% freeway, I was at 45 MPG.
CV Performance makes a velocity needle for big twins that many say is a step up from using the old N65 needle and will work with the OEM jets on a stock thru Stage I 88 TC engine.... one testimonial said it cured popping that the N65 needle did not...
Don't give up on the old CV40... it's a great Carb once dialed in...
if you don't want to mess with yours, there is place in Florida, I never used them, just marked it for future reference, that sells new CV 40s with 45/190 jets, polished slide, and you can get it with upgraded screws and top cover for $189 & $219 respectively..
http://wincycles.com/Carburetor/c7/p...duct_info.html
http://wincycles.com/m8/Harley-Parts...duct_info.html
Good luck....
Last edited by hattitude; Oct 2, 2017 at 02:58 PM.
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Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 16
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From: Brewster, ny
That makes sense hattitude. I'm not looking to do any major mods at all. I love it just the way it is. I'm going to get the needle and swap the jet as you suggested. I prefer running rich to lean anyway - spark plugs are cheaper than valves.
Thanks for taking the time to walk me through this.
Thanks for taking the time to walk me through this.
Thread Starter
|
Novice
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Brewster, ny
That makes sense hattitude. I'm not looking to do any major mods at all. I love it just the way it is. I'm going to get the needle and swap the jet as you suggested. I prefer running rich to lean anyway - spark plugs are cheaper than valves.
Thanks for taking the time to walk me through this.
Thanks for taking the time to walk me through this.