cam tensioner and general maintenance
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Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 4,510
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From: someplace
This one was one I repaired but it isn't mine; 7k miles (10 years old) with a very, very conservative rider, synthetic oil. It got the oil pump. Ultimately it got Cyco pads, new inner cam bearings, new breathers but the most labor intensive part was flushing everything. I cringe everytime I see a post here where someone says "they were good, I'll check them again in xxxx miles. 1999-2002 TC88 engines are special compared to what HD sells today. Leaving those pads in there is a good way to damage an engine with a very good crank.
People ask about this very thing every month, get advised that they should swap the pads and inner cam bearings; then find reasons not to do the work. I always hope the best for them but contrary to what some "in the know" people say, they fail by cratering and crumbling with regularity. Cycos seem to solve the problem pretty cheaply. I usually install a Baisley spring as well. No upgraded oil pump needed if the pump isn't hurt because you haven't added a circuit with oil pressurized tensioners. I won't install the SE conversion kit as it retains the stock rear cam chain in lieu of a roller chain. Best way to get hydro tensioners is to order a 2007 + camplate, pump, tensioners, cam gears, both chains and a set of roller conversion cams like Andrews. Roller chains on both sides and hydro tensioners that won't have a rear failure (prematurely). The back tensioner chain rubs the back pad from top to bottom and causes more wear than the front that goes from bottom to top.
I'll appologize for the poor syntax and spelling errors. The no edit feature is gonna have to make me look like an idiot on this one, I'm in the garage on a repair now and wont get to a real computer for a while.
People ask about this very thing every month, get advised that they should swap the pads and inner cam bearings; then find reasons not to do the work. I always hope the best for them but contrary to what some "in the know" people say, they fail by cratering and crumbling with regularity. Cycos seem to solve the problem pretty cheaply. I usually install a Baisley spring as well. No upgraded oil pump needed if the pump isn't hurt because you haven't added a circuit with oil pressurized tensioners. I won't install the SE conversion kit as it retains the stock rear cam chain in lieu of a roller chain. Best way to get hydro tensioners is to order a 2007 + camplate, pump, tensioners, cam gears, both chains and a set of roller conversion cams like Andrews. Roller chains on both sides and hydro tensioners that won't have a rear failure (prematurely). The back tensioner chain rubs the back pad from top to bottom and causes more wear than the front that goes from bottom to top.
I'll appologize for the poor syntax and spelling errors. The no edit feature is gonna have to make me look like an idiot on this one, I'm in the garage on a repair now and wont get to a real computer for a while.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,936
Likes: 310
From: coastal sc
nomadmax I wish you were closer to south carolina I would bring it to you to work some magic. thanks for the input, I check my 00 electra glide about every 5-7 thousand miles. my brother inlaw lost his cam shoes at 24000 mile on his 05 rk. quite expensive little fix.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 11,814
Likes: 5,120
From: SW Ohio
I'm happy to talk anyone thru this job here at the forums; it's not that difficult. I won't cut pushrods because the new style stamped steel breathers (for 12 bucks or so) can be replaced when you have the upper rocker covers off. Again, it's not a big job but it can be daunting the first time.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 1,751
Likes: 263
From: Catalina AZ
Lots of opinions on the subject... with that said.
It's not that tough to inspect the otter one, inner one is a little harder (you will need an inspection mirror).
But worth doing, they do get brittle and can break.
If you are handy with a wrench and on a budget (or want to get to know your bike better) make it a winter project.
I did mine in a couple days, working on it after work in the evening.
I replaced the shoes, I was going to swap in gear drive but the cost was an issue at the time.
The old ones were very brittle, that bike had just under 40k.
As far as wear time/miles it's all over the map.
Heard of people with under 15,000 miles and some with 60,000 miles (back to the top).
Are you planning on keeping the bike, if you are (I would) weigh out going with hydroponic or gear drive (better long term results).
Do some searching and reading, then decide.
It's not that tough to inspect the otter one, inner one is a little harder (you will need an inspection mirror).
But worth doing, they do get brittle and can break.
If you are handy with a wrench and on a budget (or want to get to know your bike better) make it a winter project.
I did mine in a couple days, working on it after work in the evening.
I replaced the shoes, I was going to swap in gear drive but the cost was an issue at the time.
The old ones were very brittle, that bike had just under 40k.
As far as wear time/miles it's all over the map.
Heard of people with under 15,000 miles and some with 60,000 miles (back to the top).
Are you planning on keeping the bike, if you are (I would) weigh out going with hydroponic or gear drive (better long term results).
Do some searching and reading, then decide.
Last edited by GRWHD; Oct 16, 2017 at 08:23 AM.
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