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Double post from carb section:
Hi, 2000 Heritage, mild cams, VH Longshots with standard baffles (so not much baffle). SE intake and filter. External breather. Bike runs just ok with current setup of old school dynojet needle, dynojet emulsion tube and slide drilled little more than 1/8" (drill bit check has slight play). No damage to slide diaphragm and is flexible. Current jets are 180/48. From what I've found, 180/45 would be stock.
The bike smells like it's running rich all the time, so bad, that my buds make me ride at the back and I'm getting about 25 mpg, I'm not a heavy throttle guy but I do cruise at 75ish on highway. Like I said it runs just ok. I get a slight hesitation on high speed roll on, but has plenty of power, and it idles nice. I checked the plugs doing a chop this past summer and plugs look perfect.
When I pulled the carb apart today, the mixture screw was turned all the way in which worried me, but again...bike runs ok? Also, the needle had 3 washers stacked on top of the clip? See pic
That seems wrong... I checked for intake leaks with brake cleaner and mapp gas, none.
I'm considering switching to CV emulsion tube and jets and then tuning the mixture screw. My questions are: jet suggestions? I can't be the only one with this setup and would like advice and what's up with those washers?
This seems wrong to me
The washers are for needle height , if acceleration is good sounds like it might be close, With the idle jet turned in all the way, sounds like low speed jet is too big. This link might help.
I no longer have a carbed bike but I did a lot of reading when I had carb issues. Mos say to avoid the "performance emulsion tube an slide spring. The "sportster needle" is recommended... I don't remember the specifics on it or why. some say cut the stock spring others say don't....you might just need an afr adjustment.
here's another link to check out: http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm
Thanks for the replies. I checked those links before posting, I'm a research nut....I still think those washers are supposed to be under the clip tho? I'm going to take advice from carb section and bring it back to rock stock and start from there. Local dealer has to order tube AND jet...figures. At least the weather here sucks, so being down is no biggie.
The secret to carb tuning is make sure the thing is working correctly first, float height , needle and seat that sort of stuff and then only making one change at a time .
Make one change then test know your result then move on to if it needs another change.
You'll work it out man.
180/46 jetting will give you better performance and better gas mileage. The 48 jet is the main problem. Under the needle valve, only 1, ONE SPACER. Set your float to factory spec. Idle mixture screw - turn in GENTLY till seated. Turn out 2 1/2 turns. You can fine tune it with the idle mix screw, but no more than 3 turns out if you need to.
Ya know, if I get stumbled dialin in a carb I know the guru needs hand on. Find an old indy thats into shovels/panheads. I rem AZ at the bar, someone asked around anyone knew how to dial in an S&S, he was havin probs. Bought my beer rest of the night. rem another time it was Mikunis...lmfao
I'm grandstandin this eve, I know. Some troll will trash me for talkin smack
EDIT: I should have got into the SU carb, but I didnt. Really gave em somethng to talk about...*laffs
Last edited by Tampa Fatboy; Feb 20, 2018 at 07:25 PM.
180/46 jetting will give you better performance and better gas mileage. The 48 jet is the main problem. Under the needle valve, only 1, ONE SPACER. Set your float to factory spec. Idle mixture screw - turn in GENTLY till seated. Turn out 2 1/2 turns. You can fine tune it with the idle mix screw, but no more than 3 turns out if you need to.
Thanks for the replies. I checked those links before posting, I'm a research nut....I still think those washers are supposed to be under the clip tho? I'm going to take advice from carb section and bring it back to rock stock and start from there. Local dealer has to order tube AND jet...figures. At least the weather here sucks, so being down is no biggie.
Well if you are a research nut, you should have come across a lot of negative info on the Dynojet jet kits. Your issues are typical for most Dynojet users...rich running and poor mileage.
Some points for you to consider:
-the DJ jet numbers don't correspond to HD jet numbers, they use a different scale.
-you may get away with 1/8" hole in the slide, but any bigger will cause problems. I think DJ used 5/32"
-I believe the early DJ kits told you to stack the washers above the needle clip. Current instructions do not.
-Some DJ kits replaced the throttle slide with a thunderslide.
Best advice I can give you is to return to stock parts using the 'sportster' needle(N65C) and HD or HD equivalent jets. You will need to go up one or two sizes on the main jet (from stock) and at least one size on the slow jet. (.45 or .48).
Good luck. CV Performance is a good resource for parts as some HD carb parts are no longer stocked.
Well if you are a research nut, you should have come across a lot of negative info on the Dynojet jet kits. Your issues are typical for most Dynojet users...rich running and poor mileage.
Some points for you to consider:
-the DJ jet numbers don't correspond to HD jet numbers, they use a different scale.
-you may get away with 1/8" hole in the slide, but any bigger will cause problems. I think DJ used 5/32"
-I believe the early DJ kits told you to stack the washers above the needle clip. Current instructions do not.
-Some DJ kits replaced the throttle slide with a thunderslide.
Best advice I can give you is to return to stock parts using the 'sportster' needle(N65C) and HD or HD equivalent jets. You will need to go up one or two sizes on the main jet (from stock) and at least one size on the slow jet. (.45 or .48).
Good luck. CV Performance is a good resource for parts as some HD carb parts are no longer stocked.
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Help with carb
