a question for deuce owners
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From: 3rd stone from the sun
a question for deuce owners
any deuce owners tried draining fork oil out of the bottom drain holes? I tried (yes i undid the fork caps too) and I couldnt get them to drain thru them.Took fork tube off and removed small screw plugs and copper washers and looked and it appears as if they need to be drilled out.There is a wall or appears to be.I was wondering if what appears to be a wall is just channeling (valving) for fork oil for the fork tubes? Looked around on forum , You Tube, cant find an answer, dealer is scratching its head. I dont want to drill em after finding they may be some sort of channel for valving or having something to do with the fork design.Im hoping its a defect in casting, but I was hoping to just pop the top caps and unscrew the drain plugs on the bottom and drop the oil. Any advice or did any one find something similar with the bottom drains? My common sense tells me theyre drains and it they dont drain something isnt correct.Has to be MOCO A shout out to any one who may have seen this or maybe Im doing something wrong here,but I'm stumped.
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From: 3rd stone from the sun
Thank you SMSMW2015 but schematic not needed, but again thank you for your help . My problem is what I posted above.I went to drain my fork oil and the drain holes didnt work ,And yes I opened up the fork tub caps on top. So I asked if any one successfully used their drain holes when servicing their fork tubes? When I view my drain holes there seems to be a wall of aluminum 2 mms away from the the thread pattern.Now common sense tells me if theyre set up as drain holes and they dont drain, something is blocking them.I also thought it may be some type of channel as in hydraulic valving for the fork tube oil. I asked if any one used their drain holes successfully and if they could indeed see a void with a penetration of say 1/2" .Like I said all I have is aluminum material that maybe casting slag not broken off by a robot or line worker.Wondering if any one could advise. If not Im thinking of drilling it out and hopefully fixing an over looked process in its manufacturing. Thanking all in advance for any help.
Last edited by Torky_SOB; May 25, 2018 at 11:06 AM.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2018
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From: PNW
Given that the drain hole is not very far off the ground, have you by chance looked up inside to see if the hole is actually at the 12 o'clock position and above the threads? I don't know that this is how it's put together but I've seen weep holes like that on other things.
My manual does say to raise the front tire off the ground and make sure the forks are fully extended before removing the drain screw.
My manual does say to raise the front tire off the ground and make sure the forks are fully extended before removing the drain screw.
Last edited by iHodor; May 25, 2018 at 07:29 PM.
Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 694
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From: Denver CO
This ^^^
Have had my 2000 since new.
First time I tried to drain the fork oil I just removed the drain screw.
After sitting all night only got a few drops???
One of my "go to guys" advised I try raising the front end. Still took a while but it drained.
JM
Have had my 2000 since new.
First time I tried to drain the fork oil I just removed the drain screw.
After sitting all night only got a few drops???
One of my "go to guys" advised I try raising the front end. Still took a while but it drained.
JM
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From: 3rd stone from the sun
Thank You men. Yeah front end was up fully extended and no drainage.I'm still interested in if any can see if there is a casting mistake as mine doesnt seem to have a "hole" more of a wall of alloy material. Also did look to see if there was a hole off center but it doesnt appear so.. I dont want to drill it until Im positive but it sure is a PITA having to remove the fork tubes from the trees and manually dump the contents out. Especially when its designed with a drain.Could be worse I guess I can get desired result but having to take extra steps of labor is a bit frustrating. Thanks to all and if any one can report if they do have the same thing with a wall of alloy material by their drain ,much appreciation .
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From: SW Ohio
Torky,
Just do it right and take the fork legs off after loosening the top caps. Turn the legs upside down and pump out all the old fluid, then put new fluid back in using a measurement from the top as opposed to a liquid volume measurement. With a bike like yours it only takes a little more time and it's done correctly. I could live to be a 150 if I had all the time I spent in my youth half assing stuff.
Just do it right and take the fork legs off after loosening the top caps. Turn the legs upside down and pump out all the old fluid, then put new fluid back in using a measurement from the top as opposed to a liquid volume measurement. With a bike like yours it only takes a little more time and it's done correctly. I could live to be a 150 if I had all the time I spent in my youth half assing stuff.
Last edited by Campy Roadie; May 26, 2018 at 06:01 AM.
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From: 3rd stone from the sun
Yes indeed, its what I did but was hoping I could use the drains the way they were designed,but totally agree.When **** has to be done you just roll up your sleeves and have at it. Few extra steps and it allowed me to really inspect all components and job completed.But I am thinking the MOCO may have missed knocking the casting slag out of the way.**** happens as we all know.Cant complain, Bought in 02 and running great and no major repairs to speak of, just enhancements to performance as most of us do. It took a little longer but as mentioned yu can waste a ton of time 1/2 assing around. Enjoy the weekend, me Im going to build an ark soon. Weather for ducks the last 3.5 weeks.
Last edited by Torky_SOB; May 26, 2018 at 08:46 AM.