Primary Noise at clutch release
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Joined: Apr 2017
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From: Langley, BC
Primary Noise at clutch release
I have a 1999 Fatboy with some recent noise coming from the primary when I start out in gear. No noise in neutral, only when I start letting the clutch out. It started out as a short chatter when the bike was real cold in early spring but went away in a minute on a ride. It's to the point now where the chatter is full time while under load. Fluids are only 5000 miles old but admittedly I haven't pulled the primary cover to check that oil level.
There is no clutch slip and no other distinguishing noises/event.
Since I'm not mechanically inclined I'll be taking this to the dealer, but I'd like some opinions as to a likely reason for this. I.e. clutch is ready for replacement, low oil level, bearing, etc.
While on the subject opinions on the following would also be appreciated.
There is no clutch slip and no other distinguishing noises/event.
Since I'm not mechanically inclined I'll be taking this to the dealer, but I'd like some opinions as to a likely reason for this. I.e. clutch is ready for replacement, low oil level, bearing, etc.
While on the subject opinions on the following would also be appreciated.
- Because neutral is not easy to locate at or coming to a stop light, I tend to leave my clutch in at most stops, even the long ones. How much damage is done to the clutch over time keeping the clutch engaged?
- If I pull the primary cover off to check the oil level, do I need to use lock tight on the 5 bolts when putting it back on?
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Honah Lee
Sounds like your tensioner needs to go up one notch.
As it warms up, aluminum case gets longer between transmission and front dive pulley on end of crank shaft. So once warm, all is OK
Real easy fix. You have a big round dirby cover where clutch is. The other cover is that oblong one.
Level bike. Remove oblong cover. Keep gasket in same place. (Take a look at it)
Now push up on chain up in there. With a big screw driver. As soon a it touches, make a mark on it where it is on case. Now push up till play is gone and mark.
Is it over 3/4 ". Eyeball tensioner if it looks good. Chain grooves in but then rolls, so wear stops. They last forever.Can break with adbuse if the get brittle from hot oil.
If so carefully loosen two bolts holding your tensioner holding it in. Now pull it out and up one notch. Push it back in. Do not let it get away from you. Just hand tighten bolts and recheck. 5/8-3/4". Check 3 or 4 places by putting in high gear and turn rear wheel.
Now torque two bolts. New gasket or a smear of black RTV on it. Just slug bolts and tweek about 1/8 turn . Recheck them hot.
Check dirby for oil level. Only to bottom edge of where clutch springs start.
See YouTube for real details, oil level and such
As it warms up, aluminum case gets longer between transmission and front dive pulley on end of crank shaft. So once warm, all is OK
Real easy fix. You have a big round dirby cover where clutch is. The other cover is that oblong one.
Level bike. Remove oblong cover. Keep gasket in same place. (Take a look at it)
Now push up on chain up in there. With a big screw driver. As soon a it touches, make a mark on it where it is on case. Now push up till play is gone and mark.
Is it over 3/4 ". Eyeball tensioner if it looks good. Chain grooves in but then rolls, so wear stops. They last forever.Can break with adbuse if the get brittle from hot oil.
If so carefully loosen two bolts holding your tensioner holding it in. Now pull it out and up one notch. Push it back in. Do not let it get away from you. Just hand tighten bolts and recheck. 5/8-3/4". Check 3 or 4 places by putting in high gear and turn rear wheel.
Now torque two bolts. New gasket or a smear of black RTV on it. Just slug bolts and tweek about 1/8 turn . Recheck them hot.
Check dirby for oil level. Only to bottom edge of where clutch springs start.
See YouTube for real details, oil level and such
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Dec 16, 2018 at 03:50 PM.
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