Most likely. I'm getting ready to add speakers to my engine guard. I bought these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B074TJ3YY4/

This is the amp I bought to power them: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07281X8FP/

Inexpensive, and I want to be sure to hear them when I ride. And even if the speakers don't last, the amp likely will.

 

I had to add one to my Street Glide to hear it ok at highway speed. I added a cervin vega B 52 for about $140 off ebay an some $100 infinity speakers an I think it sounds great for what I spent.

 

I had WOC fairing with Alpine head unit and Kicker spaekers and no amp,it rocked.I have a Reckless on the way,be here next week,i am stoked even if I haven't been able to ride because of winter

 

I do not have amp in my system.
At about 75 it starts getting tougher to hear mine (clearly, but you can still hear it).
I used a marine radio and speakers with high output.
Compared to my old hog tuned 09 Ultra it is close (close enough & allot less $ & #'s)

 

I put a reckless fairing on one of my bikes. Had a good deck and speakers with no amp. Was plenty loud. But if you have the cash and a place to put it a amp is better.

 

Just FYI, that amp I linked above is under $50. Yes, I know that can be a lot to some, but overall, bike toys are pricey. This isn't bad for a (used for the) bike toy.

 

I put the MTX sound bar on my bike, can't really hear is above 55mph... still ncie to have sounds...

So yes get an amp!!!

RJ

 

 

Just an FYI to others reading this thread later, be careful that you don't get an amp that is too overpowered for the speakers. From what I've seen so far (mostly) the speakers for bikes don't tend to run over 100 watts each, max. So, if that's the case, you want to max out at a 200 watt amp. Getting a 500 watt amp for 200 total amp speakers would just blow the speakers (and your investment).

Also that amp I linked above is nice in that it has Bluetooth built in. Very convenient not to have to do the whole "plug in the headphone cord" thing.

A couple more things to consider when wiring your bike for sound or other accessories:

• Where will you run the wires? For me, it was on the left underside of the tank since all my hookups go in my left bag.
• Do you have other accessories? Can your battery handle the draw? (I'm a gadget guy, and I'm getting concerned about this now with amp added to my camera, trailer wiring, USB connection, etc.)
• Ensure that the accessories have a switched power. Most have a constant draw, but with the extra "switched power" wire they understand when the bike is off and when it's not.
• We all get caught in the rain from time to time (or hit puddles). Be sure you tape those connections at least, and at best install waterproof (or water resistant) connections. You'll usually have to make your own. Connectors like this or this work really well.
• Ensure you are using the right gauge of wire. Most electronics have tiny wires (18-22 gauge), but you might need a 12-16 gauge wire to carry power from the battery and to ground to/from your fuse box.
• If you're stuffing everything into your saddlebags, will you be able to pull the wiring out to remove the saddlebags for service?
• Are you properly installing inline fuses (or using a fuse box) to protect everything correctly? Use the right amp fuses, too! (And carry extras, just in case.)
• Ensure you are considering whether your bike has CAN-BUS or not. If so, you might consider running your own circuit from the battery or buying / using model appropriate adapters that correctly tie into the CAN-BUS system. (Please do your own reasearch, I am not an electrician.) Bear in mind that if you're utilizing switches built into a fairing (aftermarket or included with a touring bike), you may be required to utilize the CAN-BUS.
• If you can afford it and have the time, and KNOW you plan to expand, strongly consider using a fuse box.
• If you're hitting a high draw (do the math!) with all your accessories, consider converting to LED's where possible (headlight, passing lamps, blinkers, tail light, running lights) to decrease the overall power consumption.
• As a programmer, I highly recommend documentation. You may not remember next month what that purple wire is. Draw up a schematic, update as you change things, put it in a ziploc bag and keep it with the bike. If you go in for service of any type, you'll be able to answer "what's this wire?" questions. Or give a heads up to the tech.
• Ensure all your wiring, esp. if stuffing in the saddlebags or a fairing compartment, is shielded from touch, from each other, etc. Another good reason to use a fuse box. Also consider shrink wrapping your wiring segments. Makes them strong, water resistant and clean.
• As to switched wiring, you can tap into your bike's switched circuit (if you're on a modern ride), or you can install your own switches, like I did. Switch case with one switch. Extra switches. These were the correct models for my 2016 Heritage. I installed the switch for a couple reasons. I hated the toggle switch behind the forks for the passing lamps, so I wired it instead to the top switch. My LED lighting and amp are wired to the second switch so I can have them on, even if the bike is not, and to ensure they are never drawing power when I park the bike. (I'm a pessimist!) The third switch is for my brake controller power on my Roll-a-Home trailer. I want that thing OFF during slow maneuvers.

These are just a few things I've thought of. I realize what a wonderful subject this is, and I now plan to write a lengthy blog post about it on my site when I get a chance. I've through of three other things, minimum, while closing this post!