Hello all,

I'm looking for suggestions of what might be wrong/things I can test for my 01 Heritage Softail Classic. With a full charge on the battery, when I go to start the bike, it seems to struggle to turn over, sometimes never starting. I put the bike back on the charger for a while and it might start the next time. Once it's going, I can ride fine and it starts after a short stop, but the next day it probably won't start again. The battery registers a full charge on the multimeter, but the battery was a cheaper replacement a season or two ago, so I'm hesitant to rule it out. I know a battery is probably considered a relatively cheap troubleshoot/fix and maybe I start there, but I just don't want to spend that money if it's not going to address the issue.

 

Reading the voltage of a battery with a multimeter doesn`t tell you the whole story.

A bad battery can sometimes show good voltage when not under a load.

Take the battery to an auto parts store and have them load test it, they will do it for free.

 

I'm going to take your suggestion regardless, but would you still test the battery if it tested good with the bike running? Im not questioning your suggestion, just trying to learn. On a completely unrelated note, Academy of Model Aeronautics?

 

You may very well see normal voltage when the engine is running, that is telling you what the alternator is putting out, not the battery voltage.

It does not mean the battery is good.

What are you getting at here?

 

Sounds like a failing solenoid. Do bikes have those these days for the starters?

 

Doesn`t sound like a failing solenoid at all, it sounds like a dying battery.

 

But it wouldn't hurt to also check the battery cables, both (+) and (-) for tightness and corrosion...... also check the (-) at the frame ground...

 

Didnt know what AMA stood for

 

Read this for voltage and what it should be while cranking. Almost as good as a Auto Zone check. Note battery must be at full charge to check. After charging and charger off, hit the lights to kill charging voltage. Never load test at a part store on the bike. A voltage check is no problem.Rev. 06-24-2020

Some electrical 101 and a little more..



Remember, the best made brand new battery that has been on maintenance charger for 3 days that has a loose or bad connection is no better then a boat anchor with a loose rope. The connection can get loose after one ride if the battery is not anchored and the wires are short and get tugged in a direction that can unscrew the bolts.



After a good 24+ hour maintenance low amperage (never over 2 amp) charge, with the charge light in the solid green and the battery has set about 24 hours off charge, voltage should be about 12.8 volts.

You can speed up this process by turning on the ignition key (headlight comes on) for ~3 seconds and then switch it back off. This is enough of a load to bleed off the excess residual charge from the charger and then you can measure the battery voltage.



12.8 = fully charged

12.6 = 75% charged

12.3 = 50% charged (Lot of new modern cars with system protection will not even click at this point but will have good headlight beams showing)

12.0 =25% charged



Always check both the terminals at the battery lead and also at the terminal on the wire. That helps to verify connection. With a DC volt meter (one that has a feature to lock high and low reading is best) hooked across the battery terminals and reading 12.8 or so, crank motor and while its cranking it should not drop below about 9.6 volts and as soon as it starts and throttled up to 2000 rpm, voltage should read around 14.8 volts. The 2000 rpm is the bench mark standard. Ignore idle output. Ignore output above 2000rpm unless it exceeds 14.9 volts. That is a sure indication that regulator is bad.



The crank check shows a rough check of the reserve amperage capacity of the battery while cranking with a 150-200-amp load on it. The 14.8 shows a good alternator and if you leave it on a while as the regulatory will drop the voltage a little showing itself working. However, with the lights and stuff always on, it will never drop back much. If you have a lot of options, most modern bikes will not show 14.8 charging volts at idle but stock newer bikes will be close. Older bikes with lower amperage output not so much. However, 2000 rpm is the benchmark for the standard 14.8 volts.



If the voltage is only about 13 volt DC at 2000 RPM, the AC volts stator may be shorted or bad. Unlike the regulator, this is an easy check with an AC meter. Check that the two or three legs do not go to frame ground and that the ohm resistance across all combinations of checks are within an ohm of what is called out in the service manual. Also check the AC volts coming from them at 2000 rpm.

Be cautious here since you can kill yourself with this much AC volts. You need a service manual or look you spec up on line for your unique bike. I have seen about 3 verations over the last 20 years of Harleys due to ever increasing output.



If you think battery is good and something is draining it sitting, now would be a good time to check for drain problems. Go to Harbor Freight and get you a AC/DC meter for under $25 or so. http://www.harborfreight.com/ac-dc-d...ter-37772.html Make sure it has DC amps draw, DC voltage, resistance and AC voltage. Key off. Remove the negative cable off the battery. Set meter on DC amps. Hook the meter lead to cable and the other to battery. !!Key off.do not turn on!! Ignore that first draw as the alarm trims back and stuff charges for 1 minute. Now, how many milliamps (mA) is it drawing? It should be no more then 6 mA which is the ECM (1), speedometer (1), tac, TSSM (1), HFSM (1) and voltage regulator (1)




When a battery wears out, a good charge will show fairly good voltage, but the battery can still have very low amperage capacity which will show in the crude crank test above, but it really should be checked after a good charge by removing it from bike and getting a free check at a place like AutoZone that has a fancy load meter check that gives you a print out of the battery health. Battery MUST BE CHARGED to check it. Be sure they set their meter to correct cold cranking amperage stated on the battery. Never charge the AGM absorbed glass mat battery with a regular car battery charger unless it is a newer one that says safe with this type of battery. Also, by taking battery out you now know you have good connections. Vibration tends to loosen the connections or a little corrosion will prevent charging or cause starting problems. Be forwarned, these checks quite often are incorrect due to the low amperage of these small batteries and junk checking equipment. If bike is charging, no load on battery when key is off and you are still having problems…REPLACE THE BATTERY. If battery is more then 3-4 years old.. REPLACE THE BATTERY.



Using the maintenance charger can get more years from a battery but be careful here. You do not want the last start 5 miles from home. If it still grunts when you first hit starter or kicks back with a bang, replace it. After a few years, charge and pull battery and have it checked for cold cranking amperage ever spring. Even then, if it grunts most ever start, I would replace it. Most battery checkers at AutoZone and places like that do not do really well on the low amperage setting on small batteries. Not sure why but they tend to say they are OK when they are weak. If they have one that fits your bike, Wal-Mart's AGM absorbed glass mat battery is just as good as any for one third to half the money of a Harley Battery. My last 4 years befor it started grunting. And out it came. Do not put an old fashion one with vent tubes on a modern TC Harley. Do not jump, push start or run bike with a half dead battery except in a real emergency. If a bike battery is down and you jump it, throwing all that amps to it from a big car battery especially one that is running can wreck a bike regulator or charging system. Charging a worn out battery can kill alternator stator or the voltage regulator or both. Probably ending in a big dollar repair in parts alone.



It is also a good idea to always check your battery at 2000 RPM with your meter set to AC. If by chance, the regulator goes bad, sometimes it will let AC come thru. That is a sure sign of a bad regulator.

Older 2 wire stators have a single-phase output while the newer stators with three wires have a 3-phase output. The 3 phase systems provides a more consistent and higher AC output to the voltage regulator. The voltage regulator takes the AC from the alternator, rectifies it thru diodes to DC and limits the voltage level to the battery depending on the voltage reading it get back from battery. Loose or corroded connections at battery will do strange spikes in DC current. Always check on battery side for AC. Should be zero always.



Also remember, when starting a Harley, hit the starter and hold it in till it is firing on both cylinders and running before letting up. If you let up before it’s running, quiet often, it actually take an FI motor longer to start. There is a fraction of a second more for a long stroke Harley then a multi-cylinder car for it to get going. If you do not do this, it will kick back with a bang, sneeze thru the intake or crank a lot longer the second time or shame on you the third time. Also, if you have a habit of doing this, the starter solenoid switch contact will only have half the life it could. You cannot hurt the starter. The starter gear has a sprag clutch. There are drive pins in it that as the gas motor catches and run, it outruns the starter motor drive and disengages it from the electric motor. If you hold it in a little too long and listen carefully, you will hear the sprag clutch run up the ramps and slip. Makes a sizzle hum. This will show you your starter sprag clutch is OK.



My batteries:

11-05-03 Originial Harley 3 years

08-07-06 Harley 6.5 years (nursed way too long and was grunting and banging often)

04-29-13 Walmart Ever Start 4 years (grunting)

03-25-17 AutoZone Duralast Gold

 

I have similar issues as the OP on my 2012 Blackline. When the bike was sitting for a few days (3+) it cranks really hard and takes its time to actually fire up. After that, it starts right away, no problems at all.
Didn´t change when I bought a new AGM battery last year (and checked for all cables/connections to sit tight) and again, did not change when I "invested" in an HD lithium battery beginning of the year.
What is the easiest way to check if ACR is enabled? Unfortunately my FP3 cannot tell me...

Best, niv