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Excessive Brake Dust

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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 07:09 PM
  #11  
purple haze's Avatar
purple haze
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Default RE: Excessive Brake Dust

New brake pads could help but not to tell you how to ride but try to use the front brake more, it may cut down on all the dust on back wheel. PURPLE HAZE.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 10:13 PM
  #12  
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Default RE: Excessive Brake Dust

Thx for the advice guys. I'll check into the Lyndall z pads and watch the downshifing.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 10:23 PM
  #13  
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Default RE: Excessive Brake Dust

I changed to Lyndalls because of rear brake squealing. The change stopped the squeal and the brake dust.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2008 | 05:06 PM
  #14  
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edson443
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Default RE: Excessive Brake Dust

I have an 05' FXSTI and I was wondering, is it common to have excessive brake dust on the front rotor with stock brakes? I still have the original pads from factory at 13,000 miles. At first, I thought I had a brake fluid leak because the dust seems to mimic a fine oil mist. I have held the brake handle firmly several times to see if there is a pressure leak, but the handle holds solid. My other clue is that the base of the spokes on the front rim have blackened by this same dust/fine oil mist. I have also found this residue on the underside of the steering head like it sprayed up on to the frame and on my chaps, found when I cleaned them. If my front brake caliper was leaking internally would it eventually spray out on to the rotor or drip at the bottom of the brake pad? If it is just brake dust I won't be overly concerned, I will just make sure to keep the rotor and caliper clean. If it is something more that I should look in to I would definitely appreciate any suggestions.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2008 | 06:23 PM
  #15  
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Default RE: Excessive Brake Dust

edson443, that is corrosive brake dust from your sinistered brake pads. This will rust your chrome wheels in the little pit spots.

The part you do not see is the ring of corrosive crappy brake dust forming around the base/boot of your pistons. Over time this dust will form thicker & thicker until your caliper will not retract fully. At this point you will than feel it is harder to move your bike around when the motor is off. The change is gradual so you do not notice it. Kind of like prostrate cancer.

You will start hearing a squealing noise emanating from the rotor. As you try an ignore the problem your rotor is wearing from the abrasive sinister pad dragging on one side because of one pf the pistons not retracting fully. Than your rotor warps from heat caused from friction. This is about the time you will start posting that your brakes suck and are noisy.

Maybe than you will remember a post from me suggesting you to clean out your calipers every 2,500 miles. Not nearly as much fun as adding chrome and no one sees it. But what the hell, you never need good brakes until the end anyhow. Go [here], click on the hyper link: Clean/Install Brake Pads & Calipers and follow all of the instructions.
[ul][*]Make sure you do the rear.[*]Yes, you need to clean all of them.[*]Ya, you need to pull the axle until you clear the caliper.[*]No, I do not recommend “pulling the pads up through the top”.[*]Do the job only as good as you want your brakes to work.[*]Yes I only use and sell Lyndall Racing Pads.[/ul]
 
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