Pushrod Adjustment
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From: Sarasota, FL
Pushrod Adjustment
Quit smoking and so I started pulling anything remotely mechanical apart in my house and fixing/improving if possible.
dove into the cam chest on my 03 Deuce (carb) to replace the tensioner shoes and decided new cams, tappets, and quickee adjustable pushrods and all new bearings etc. were needed. Cause why not?
Ordered it all from S&S, little 509 cam so nothing too fancy and able to keep stock valve train.
After its back together and pushrods adjusted to spec as per instructions (.125, which is 4 full turns, or 24 flats) I was getting some louder that normal valve noise once she got warm. Did some research and have read that they should go to .140 which would be 4.5 turns, and also called S&S and they said to back it down to 21 flats.
When receiving conflicting info, to the forum I go.
Thoughts/recommendations?
dove into the cam chest on my 03 Deuce (carb) to replace the tensioner shoes and decided new cams, tappets, and quickee adjustable pushrods and all new bearings etc. were needed. Cause why not?
Ordered it all from S&S, little 509 cam so nothing too fancy and able to keep stock valve train.
After its back together and pushrods adjusted to spec as per instructions (.125, which is 4 full turns, or 24 flats) I was getting some louder that normal valve noise once she got warm. Did some research and have read that they should go to .140 which would be 4.5 turns, and also called S&S and they said to back it down to 21 flats.
When receiving conflicting info, to the forum I go.
Thoughts/recommendations?
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From: Sarasota, FL
Last edited by JerEazy; Feb 26, 2021 at 07:26 AM.
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From: Sarasota, FL
waiting for a bit more feedback before reinstall.
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I put them back in at 21 flats - its not terrible - just dont remember hearing it before. Going to go to 27 flats (.140) and see whats what there.
Also: Running straight 50wt in SWFL
Also: Running straight 50wt in SWFL
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From: San Diego, CA
After it’s back together and pushrods adjusted to spec as per instructions (.125, which is 4 full turns, or 24 flats) I was getting some louder that normal valve noise once she got warm. Did some research and have read that they should go to .140 which would be 4.5 turns, and also called S&S and they said to back it down to 21 flats.
Thoughts/recommendations?
FWIW.....
I don't use S&S lifters, I use Johnson Hy-Lift lifters. I do use the S&S quickie adjustable pushrods @ 32 tpi.
Many recommend setting those lifters to 0.140".... I set the pushrods at 27 flats, or 4 full turns and 3 flats, or 4.5 turns... however you want to call it....
My chart says that's 0.141" (to be more technical it's 0.1404" at .0052" distance per flat on a 32 tpi pushrod)
In your situation, I would do the easiest fixes first...
So I would try the S&S recommended lifter depth... then the 0.140" lifter depth... and if neither of them are to your liking, it will be time to disassemble what you did, looking for "witness" marks of rubbing/contact to find the noise....
I've read about several places to check...
#1 seems to be the pushrod tubes (bore them out to 5/8" down from 1.25" to 1.5" from the top of the tubes)
#2 Make sure to center the bottom rocker boxes and rocker arm supports. The fatter adjustable pushrods can contact the bottom rocker or rocker supports...
A couple of others I have recently read about...
Check the rocker box top covers for possible, very minor contact form pushrod tips then clearance them. (usually only on higher lift cams)
Check for clearance around the valve springs and rocker cases at the top of the spings/retainers, shoot for 0.050" and clearance if necessary. This is suggested by Kevin Baxter @ Pro Twin Performance I saw on a video of the procedure. Usually only necessary if you change valves/springs/retainers....
Good luck with the search...
FWIW..... You are not alone... I have an '03 that started ticking after a cam plate upgrade. I tried numerous quick-fix type stuff and none of it worked... I'm just getting ready to do a tear down and inspection of all my work... to try and find the culprit!!
Last edited by hattitude; Feb 27, 2021 at 12:08 PM.
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Did you allow the offers to bleed down properly before final adjustment? Lifter bleed down is important especially with the adjustable push rods.
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From: Sarasota, FL
yessir.
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Joined: Jan 2017
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From: Sarasota, FL
FWIW.....
I don't use S&S lifters, I use Johnson Hy-Lift lifters. I do use the S&S quickie adjustable pushrods @ 32 tpi.
Many recommend setting those lifters to 0.140".... I set the pushrods at 27 flats, or 4 full turns and 3 flats, or 4.5 turns... however you want to call it....
My chart says that's 0.141" (to be more technical it's 0.1404" at .0052" distance per flat on a 32 tpi pushrod)
In your situation, I would do the easiest fixes first...
So I would try the S&S recommended lifter depth... then the 0.140" lifter depth... and if neither of them are to your liking, it will be time to disassemble what you did, looking for "witness" marks of rubbing/contact to find the noise....
I've read about several places to check...
#1 seems to be the pushrod tubes (bore them out to 5/8" down from 1.25" to 1.5" from the top of the tubes)
#2 Make sure to center the bottom rocker boxes and rocker arm supports. The fatter adjustable pushrods can contact the bottom rocker or rocker supports...
A couple of others I have recently read about...
Check the rocker box top covers for possible, very minor contact form pushrod tips then clearance them. (usually only on higher lift cams)
Check for clearance around the valve springs and rocker cases at the top of the spings/retainers, shoot for 0.050" and clearance if necessary. This is suggested by Kevin Baxter @ Pro Twin Performance I saw on a video of the procedure. Usually only necessary if you change valves/springs/retainers....
Good luck with the search...
FWIW..... You are not alone... I have an '03 that started ticking after a cam plate upgrade. I tried numerous quick-fix type stuff and none of it worked... I'm just getting ready to do a tear down and inspection of all my work... to try and find the culprit!!
I don't use S&S lifters, I use Johnson Hy-Lift lifters. I do use the S&S quickie adjustable pushrods @ 32 tpi.
Many recommend setting those lifters to 0.140".... I set the pushrods at 27 flats, or 4 full turns and 3 flats, or 4.5 turns... however you want to call it....
My chart says that's 0.141" (to be more technical it's 0.1404" at .0052" distance per flat on a 32 tpi pushrod)
In your situation, I would do the easiest fixes first...
So I would try the S&S recommended lifter depth... then the 0.140" lifter depth... and if neither of them are to your liking, it will be time to disassemble what you did, looking for "witness" marks of rubbing/contact to find the noise....
I've read about several places to check...
#1 seems to be the pushrod tubes (bore them out to 5/8" down from 1.25" to 1.5" from the top of the tubes)
#2 Make sure to center the bottom rocker boxes and rocker arm supports. The fatter adjustable pushrods can contact the bottom rocker or rocker supports...
A couple of others I have recently read about...
Check the rocker box top covers for possible, very minor contact form pushrod tips then clearance them. (usually only on higher lift cams)
Check for clearance around the valve springs and rocker cases at the top of the spings/retainers, shoot for 0.050" and clearance if necessary. This is suggested by Kevin Baxter @ Pro Twin Performance I saw on a video of the procedure. Usually only necessary if you change valves/springs/retainers....
Good luck with the search...
FWIW..... You are not alone... I have an '03 that started ticking after a cam plate upgrade. I tried numerous quick-fix type stuff and none of it worked... I'm just getting ready to do a tear down and inspection of all my work... to try and find the culprit!!