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Don't see a table lift in your shop; you did all that with the scissor jack??
I've got both. My Shovelhead is currently occupying the table tho, so much of my tinkering has been done with a pair of scissor jacks and an overhead hoist.
Got my caliper back from the machine shop. They took off 0.25". This will enable me to slide the wheel over to the right that amount, centering the wheel. Spacers will be as follows (left to right); 2.125", wheel hub, 0.47", 0.90" (caliper thickness). Note that the caliper to hub/rotor spacing remains the same with the use of the factory 0.47" RH spacer. Left spacer is increased by the quarter inch we took off the caliper mount. I'll need to add an additional 0.25" spacer between the pulley and hub to restore alignment of the belt.
Since we're moving the caliper a quarter inch toward the right side of the swingarm, I went ahead and removed that amount from the flat steel bracket on the swingarm. Fits perfectly, no interference anywhere.
Not so sure about that but thanks for following along!
I borrowed a laser to make sure everything is in line. Come to find out, a quarter inch was a little too far. Took it all down and mocked it up with a 1/8 spacer between the caliper and the swingarm and a 2" spacer on the left side of the wheel. This nets a 1/8" total offset to the right from the factory setup. It's probably still about 0.020" off which is close enough for me. We'll correct that when the new wheel is laced.
Recap: 2" spacer on LH side between swingarm and hub, 1/8 spacer for pulley, .47 spacer between hub and caliper, 1/8 spacer between caliper and swingarm. (Caliper mount is 1/4" narrower than stock)
Picked up a nice spoked wheel with natural-finished hub this week. I believe these were used on the 00-01 Heritage Softails. Mounted it up and to my surprise, this wire wheel has about 0.10" more offset to the left than my disc wheel does. No worries, I'm going to powder coat the hub and hoop anyway and pair them with stainless spokes & nipples, so I disassembled it and used my trusty laser to establish a centerline for the hoop. I removed the 1/8" spacer between the swingarm and caliper, as this will minimize the need to offset lace the hoop.
So for those interested in doing this mod, I'd suggest the following;
For spoked wheels - you'll need to mill 1/4" off the caliper mount face and run a 2 1/8" LH spacer. You'll also need a 1/4" spacer for the pulley. RH spacer between the hub and caliper remains stock length (0.47"). Hoop will need to be laced to the centerline you've established - in my case, the c/l of the hoop will be 3.032" from the disc flange.
For disc wheels (or at least my 04 Night Train wheel) - mill the caliper mount face 1/8", use a 2" LH spacer, and a 1/8" spacer on the pulley. This will get you within 0.020" of dead center.
It's been a little while since I've updated...I picked up a Cannonball I-beam springer, Stelling and Hellings style top clamp & risers, and all the goodies to mount her up.
Again, it took a little machine work to get it fitted. I used the standard height bearing nut - machined 8mm shorter and the standard style 1980-up top dust shield. With that amount shaved off, she went together (with new races and bearings) perfectly.
I've got some new wheels being laced up (19" front on a star hub and 16" rear on factory wire hub along with 4.00-19 and 5.00-16 vintage style Firestone ANS tires). Still need to paint and polish a few parts, but the mockup looks promising.
I'm a big fan of factory style functionality, so I wanted to wire up some front turn signals, but didn't want big bulky indicators...found a pretty trick solution in these tiny Kellermann ATTO integral LED units. At 9mm diameter and about 13mm in length, they fit perfectly in the little holes on the right and left side of the springer's front fork legs. Just need to loom and hide the wiring.
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