Hey guys maybe you have an opinion before I start looking for other things
My 2000FLSTC runs like a clock except for one thing that when it happens on the highway could be disastrous.
She runs great except for the occasional flame out when she just shuts down, usually a restart works, today it needed my pushing her out of traffic and a few minutes to rest then restarted.
My riding buddy followed me home and we took as quick look. He picked up the leather heat shield that goes under the seat and covers the oil tank, the ignition wires on the left side as well as most of the rear cylinder. It was really hot under the flaps.
Could it be as simple as removing the leather flaps so air flows better around the cylinders and other components.
Its easy to take off to try, just wanted a second opinion from the experts here
Thanks

 

I would definitely try going without it just to see. Post your findings.

 

When it shuts down, have you checked to see if it's a spark or fuel issue.... ?

Some electrical components will have intermittent "shut offs" when they get hot, as they are beginning to fail...

One such component is the coil... I would check that.

Also notice if the relays under the seat are being subjected to that extreme heat you are describing...

Your bike is at an age when some components are going to fail... That leather flap you are describing could be exacerbating a problem, but not sure I would be ready to say it's causing a problem...

There are a lot of people out there running Capt Itch Coolers. They are leather flaps, kind of like you are describing, that are designed to for rider comfort. Many recommend that product to others, and this would be the first time I've read of something like that causing a problem.

Good luck with your diagnosis and repair...

 

A friend's 95 roadking done this and I found that it was a failing relay, on his bike it was in front of the battery.
it was a headache tracing it down to that because it was so intermittent. Cheap fix. Wouldn't hurt to replace it either way.
I think on the softails its located behind the battery?

 

Took a short ride without the leather heat shield and she shutdown once then restarted first try so I guess I will have to look further.
I replaced the HD petcock last summer with a non vacuum Pingle. I capped the vacuum hose end and secured it under the tank, perhaps there is a vacuum leak in that hose......could that cause very intermittent shutdowns? Going to dig deeper with that hose and permanently remove it from the carb and cap it. Dont know if the hose goes to a VOS too.
Im a mechanical guy but electrical baffles me. I ordered a HD service manual from Wisconsin HD but its back ordered.
one reply said replacing the relay behind the battery may work but im waiting for the manual to identify it. Also going to replace the disc in the accelerator pump just because it has bolts and not wires.
The shutdown happens when I roll on the throttle.....never at idle.
Thanks for the input guys!

 

I ordered a new coil......the original has to be tired after 22 years. I will replace the relays after I find them and report back to the forum.
Tough when you ride 2 hours with out a burp then shuts down for no reason

 

#31 in the pictures
my friends RK done exactly what yours is doing and this was the fix.

 

Thanks Vipers
Ill stop at the dealer tomorrow

 

Your welcome, I hope that's it like it was on Ole RK, there was no real rhyme nor reason for it but like yours would just die, few minutes later it would fire right up. Replaced this$10 part and solved.

 

If your softail is a 2000 88" engine with a carb, it will have a MAP (Manifold Air Pressure Sensor #32417-10) instead of the VOES. The MAP is on the intake manifold. The only thing that should be attached to the vacuum petcock nipple on the carb, is the vacuum petcock hose.

Just an FYI...
The early ('99-'00) Twin Cams had both the Crankshaft Position Sensor AND the Cam Position sensor. The Cam Position sensor sometimes gets old and has issues. If you should have trouble with the Cam Position sensor, many will just get a Daytona Twin Tec, TC88 ICM module... It allows you to delete/remove/unplug/throw away the Cam Position Sensor (well actually you need to leave the cam position sensor in place or the nose cone will fill up with oil.) and it will run off just the CKP like the '01+ twin cams... one less thing to worry about, AND you get to customize your tune... WIn-WIn