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No start, bcm?

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Old Apr 23, 2023 | 07:26 AM
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Default No start, bcm?

2013 heritage classic Softail. Rode the other day and experienced the bike intermittently shutoff/turn back on in the span of a split second. This happened three times in an hour of riding. Got it home, put it up on the stand, and now it won't start. Problem keeps evolving. Here goes:

Number 1: Battery is good, 12.3Volts at no load, key on it maintains the same voltage, start button pushed and it stays at 12 volts too. Solenoid wire (exciter wire) shows 1.7-2 Volts when start button is pushed and wire is off starter solenoid. That wire routes directly from starter solenoid to the L2 pin of the bcm. All grounds for electrical system also checked for good clean connection.

​​​​​​NUmber 2: codes checked, cleared, rechecked. Bcm 2112, relating to the starting circuit, is the only code that reappears.

Number 3: when I started diagnosing the situation, I was experiencing a parasitic draw of 5 Volts when I had the battery hooked up. The starter would click once when start button was pushed and then all power for the bike would be gone until I unhooked the battery again and waited awhile. The dash (speedometer display) would flicker with all the lights on it not getting full power.

​​​​​​As of now, the issue has kept itself at only one issue, just not starting and bcm 2112 is always present. I wonder if all the previous issues, along with the current one is due to a bcm that has cooked itself internally. The bike only has 7k miles on it and it's not a 2011 model that had the bcm recall. Does anyone know if there is another way to check if the bcm is the fault, (resistance/continuity testing between pins) before taking it to the HD dealer, who's a good 100+ miles away. Hate just throwing money at it blindly without doing all the tests to make sure??
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Old Apr 23, 2023 | 07:30 AM
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12.3 volts if your meter is accurate is real close to a fully discharge for the electronics on a modern Harley. Surprised it cranks.


And no way is it going to show 12 volts cranking with a small bike battery. Maybe it would with a huge car battery with 900 CCA.

Your volt/ohm meter is bad. Just what are you using as a check?
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; Apr 23, 2023 at 07:37 AM.
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Old Apr 23, 2023 | 07:33 AM
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I don't quite understand what you mean, 12.3 volts is what the battery is holding, not what is lost or used
 
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Old Apr 23, 2023 | 07:35 AM
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The exciter wire should show 12 volts when the the starter button is pushed, it only shows 1.7- 2 volts. The battery should drop a bit when it is being started but not by much. It acts as if no button is being pushed
 
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Old Apr 23, 2023 | 07:41 AM
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1. How old is the battery?

2. Have you had it load tested? 12.7 - 12.9 VDC is normal voltage for a good charged battery.

3. Your battery may have voltage but not the required amperage if it is getting old and worn out.

4. Charge up your battery, get it load tested and report back your findings before going to the BCM.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2023 | 07:46 AM
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@12.3V that battery's ~50%...not good. Will it charge? Have you tried?
 
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Old Apr 23, 2023 | 08:02 AM
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I'll have to get it load tested today to see if the amps it puts out are still up to snuff. It was a die hard gold battery purchased in June of last year.

Before I GUARANTEE that the battery isn't the issue, I want to explain a couple things. I know that the battery, under normal circumstances, would not show 12volts when the starter is being activated. That's my point, the starter isn't getting the ample volts through the exciter wire from the L2 pin of the BCM. It's only getting 1.7-2 volts. I will get the battery load tested today to cover all my bases and eliminate y'all thinking I'm a Gumby shadetree dip sh*t.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2023 | 08:10 AM
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Always good to eliminate the battery first before going into other things, then connections/fuses if the battery tests good.

Once you know you have a good battery then the real trouble shooting begins.

No one here will think you are a Gumby Shadetree Mech.

Most are here to help; however, sometimes the mechanical ability of fairly new posters is unknown.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2023 | 08:45 AM
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From: Honah Lee
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Battery needs to be fully charged overnight with a maintenance charger . Take charger off. Then the charger surface charge that it leaves drawn off by hitting lights on and off. Should read 12.6 to 12.7. Then you can load test. Be sure load test meter is set to the CCA of the battery rating .

I have found if it cranks good and voltage does not drop below 9.6, it's good

No one accusing you of anything but when you aren't clear, there are areas left that seem wrong.

​​​​​​
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; Apr 23, 2023 at 08:52 AM.
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Old Apr 23, 2023 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Jackie Paper
Battery needs to be fully charged overnight with a maintenance charger . Take charger off. Then the charger surface charge that it leaves drawn off by hitting lights on and off. Should read 12.6 to 12.7. Then you can load test. Be sure load test meter is set to the CCA of the battery rating .

I have found if it cranks good and voltage does not drop below 9.6, it's good

No one accusing you of anything but when you aren't clear, there are areas left that seem wrong.

​​​​​​
Been on a trickle charger all night, shows 12.8 volts at stand by (surface charge worn off, no load on battery such as key switch on). Can't get it load tested today, everything is closed. Can someone explain to me why I am not getting 12 volts from the bcm to the exciter wire when start button is pressed? Am I wrong to assume it should get 12volts? At less than 2 volts, I don't think that would be enough for the the solenoid to pull the contacts together, in turn sending the 12volts from battery to the starter motor
 
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