Yeah I do have the engine spacers both in a kit with .010, .020, .035 and .065" and 2 loose that makes your .050" exact, all new.

Rear's 1/4" & 3/16" both, 2.125" Id x 4-1/8" @ 1/4" used. 3/16" = 2.125 ID x 4-3/8" od , new, 7/16"bolt holes for drive sprockets.

You want pm me I won't give them away, I did buy them at some point, but I'll do you much better than retail.

Need anything else ask , I have a lot of new old stash for the older machines, repair and custom stuff, I'm in downsizing mode. Know I have more on hand than most shops stock for rebuild or repair goods.

 

Okay on the left are pulley mounting bolts 7/16" by 2" socket cap screws they're grade 8, the chrome ones are grade 5 and they're 2 1/2", Keep in mind you're going to need the hardened washers to mount that sprocket to the rim, regular washers aren't going to cut it.. Albove that is for a 99 down rim 2.0" hub x 3/4" spacer and then on the right side are 1/4" and 3/8" spacers but are for rims that are 2.2" for the mount ring of the pulleys or sprockets.. If any of this can help you let me know.. if you're going to use the older 2.0 equipment for Evo on down you can always get the spacer to make the 2.2s work..

 

Thanks guys, really cool of you both. I’ll wait and see what comes Monday but I may wanna strike a deal lol.

 

So everything came and I’m good except for the motor sprocket. I’m not liking any shim behind cause you start to lose some of the teeth width in the ID of the engine sprocket. Any chance either of you have a 24T solid engine sprocket with 1/4 to 5/16 offset?

 

Sorry no..

 

Nope, and .050" is not going change anything, you are overthinking this badly. It's why shims & kits are made specifically for this.

 

Shimming is actually a requirement because the chain variance/alignment from front to rear needs to be .030" or less..

 

we’ll here’s my thinking on the motor sprocket shim. I need it shimmed 5/16. If I stack a bunch of shims between the engine sprocket and stator cover I lose about 1/3 of the contact surface of the teeth, Harley thought a stock motor putting out 50 hp needed it to be that thick.. so genius me puts three times as much hp and torque against those teeth, only now it’s 1/3 less with three times the power. I personally imagine that stripping and creating an expensive mess. I’d rather at minimum have as much as Harley thought a stock motor needed for power.

No clue how I’ll launch this softail compared to the shovel.. but loading the clutch and quickly releasing puts a lot of stress on those parts especially while rpm is low and torque is high with the greatest amount of weight to move.

 

Think somethings getting lost in translation here, I've got factory spacers up to 1/4" so I can't picture what you are struggling with unless there's a serious miss matching of parts going.

 

Let me take some pics, just walked in the door.