An off set one keeps the spline teeth at full contact while the Chain teeth are now 1/4” closer to being lined up. Still some room for a smaller shim to get the chain perfect.

 

Mean while… back at the Justice League,

I did rig up power and test the electrical. The white wire in the brain pin is hot when the run switch and ignition switch are both in the on position and off if either are turned off. I grabbed power and took it to the coil, all set there.

 

Neglectable impact on things, belt pulleys frequently line up like that when swapped out, plenty of spline to do the job. Never had one be a problem, if anything the motor shaft spines wear long before the sprocket teeth will. And without the shock protection the comp gave you other **** will give out long before the splines become a problem. Get it aligned correctly, torqued down properly with a drop of red loctite and quit worrying about it.

And before you go off about all the horsepower and torque again I run belt systems spaced exactly as described and have been for years in big inch high HP shovel builds. I've spun the motor shaft in the flywheels from abusing it and yet to have a spline go bad.

 

Didn't realize you were going to a solid sprocket without compensator..

 

I appreciate your insight and experience. I’ll express myself this way.. I’m like a professional at finding the weakest link lol. I’ve done a bit of drap racing in the early 2000’s I ran street class both AMA, AHDRA and a few others. I know I was the poorest racer there lol. I ran Hot Street and Vintage Street. Because I was poor I did EVERYTHING I could to make my builds last. And because it was my only bike I had to really consider street use. I ran consistent 11:80’s @ around 112 mph. That’s a street tread tire. No shift assistance, under 98 cubic inches and stock cases and heads with a 130 tire…. And let me tell you, I broke a lot of parts.. I mean A lot of parts. I try to think extra extra extra heavy duty cause I know my super power is breaking the weakest link. I also am very meticulous and never settle for close enough. In truth I know there are a gazillion guys faster than me, but I have never, not even once seen anyone faster than me at any meet in street class with a shovel. I know they are out there, but nobody at any meet I’ve been to has been faster than the Red Hornet. Lol that’s what I was Nick named. So while I recognize there are many, likely you, that know a great deal more than me, I stick to what’s worked. Until I’m looking at somebodies tail light I don’t listen much to their advice. I know I’m weak and in-experienced to guys who daily worked at shops and kept everyone’s bikes running.. I never really spent much time diagnosing issues and fixing stuff. My solution is tare it all down, buy all new parts and do it as right and meticulous as I can.

 

I would think whoever made the sprocket replacement for the compensator eliminator would have designed it to be the width of a compensator and not just looking like a flat sprocket.. I don't know.. I think I would look around a little bit more though to see who has what to offer. Zippers might be a good place to start...

 

Ok, either of you guys have a 3/8 wide rear sprocket spacer? I can stack three together.. none have the lip to really help line things up. But it would be worth the wait to get one spacer preferably with the lip.

Eye Spy what looks like just what I need there @98hotrodfatboy 😁 Uhg.. I see you shared it’s the big diameter.

I need a 3/8 wheel spacer that fits my stock 3/4 axle and standard evo hub

 

The only 3/8" spacer with a lip that I have is for 2000 up rim that takes a 2.2" centering lip

 

I've purchased several from these guys..

https://secure.vulcanworks.net/store...apter-3-8.html

 

Just got back from my machinist here in town, he turned down a 1” I found locally. $60 dollars later I have a spacer lol.