I have a 93 softail. I’m installing an Ultima ignition for now. The ignition is a nose cone style. I deleted the stock little brain under the seat. But I need a switched 12v power source. The original “brain” was a 7 pin style. When I look at the factory manual I interpret the white wire that use to go to the brain is my switched hot? Do I just creat a jumper from here to the coil?






Deleted brain

 

ULTIMAŽ #53-644 Programmable Digital Ignition

SystemSingle plug: use Dynatek DC6-1 or a coil with 2.5 - 3.5 ohms resistance. Dual plug: use two DC2-1 coils wired in series (equals 3 ohms). 1. Remove the stock ignition module. Remove the outer and inner covers on the cam position sensor. Mark the engine case near the middle of the sensor. Remove the cam position sensor. The pins may be removed form the connector housing by slowly but firmly pulling the wires from the rear of the connector. 2. Feed the wires of the ignition through the hole in the engine case and seat the ignition. Rotate until the timing pickup (nearest to the switches) is at the mark made in step 1. Replace the screws that held the cam position sensor, finger tight. 3. Remove the wires from the coil. Use a test light or meter to find the white wire that has +12V when both the key and the Run/Stop switches are on (later models have only a single white/black wire). Attach this and the white wire from the ignition to one of the primary terminals. Attach the pink wire from the ignition to the other primary terminal. 4. Tach connection (if equipped). Attach the pink wire from the tach to the ignition green wire with the large (.250) blade connectors. If the bike had only one pink (or pink/black) wire at the coil, connect this to the ignition green wire. Do not connect the ignition tach wire to the coil or damage to the ignition may result. 5. Remove the wire from the VOES (Vacuum Operated Electronic Switch). Connect the ignition purple wire with the small (.187) receptacle terminal. If the VOES is not installed, see the tuning tips on the last page. On all Ultima Engines, we do not recommend the VOES switch. The blue wire is left unconnected. If there is no tach, the green wire is left unconnected. These should be folded back and tucked into the

Is this the instructions you are using now ...part # ..etc..???....
put a volt meter on the white wire and cycle the key on and off (and use the kill switch on bar )..see if the 12v comes on and off at that source ...if so take that and the white wire from the new module to the coil ...

 

The white that was on the coil goes bac to center post of tge new coil. Tge new white that comes from the Ultima ignition in the nose cone piggy backs with it on the new coil. The coil is activated by the ignition module with a ground signal. The new coil should have 3 posts and it’s important to connect the signal wires accordingly for front and rear jugs.

 

The Ultima unit is made by Dynatek, it's a white label Dyna 2000, uses the same software, wiring diagrams and support system if you dig on dynateks website. Ask whatever question needed just use dyna 2000 in the description if asked.

 

These instructions didn’t come in my kit.. I got a general over all diagram that just shows a 12V wire attached to the center post on the coil. There is no original OEM center post and there isn’t a white wire. I was hoping to button “something” up.. anything. But I guess like a billion other things I need to wait on something else. I wish all my parts would get here..

 

Here,

 

The ignition curves are not the same between the 2 ignitions.. the Ultima curves are more aggressive than the Dynatek.. And yes all the wiring is the same..

 

Thanks guys.. I’ll be able to figure it out when I can test power… maybe my harness section isn’t original.. I have only two wires that go to the original dual fire coil, neither are white and neither “seem” to go to the ignition switch. I’m outta my Element with relays, fuses and Ecu..lol. Every bike I’ve built I’ve wired from the ground up and kept it really simple. Heck these softails (stolen 90 & 93) are the first bikes I’ve ever owned that even had turn signals.

I’m just frustrated about Nick nack parts holding everything up. Goes like this.. can’t install battery to test because cables aren’t installed. Cables aren’t installed because oil tank isn’t installed, oil tank isn’t installed because starter isn’t installed. Starter isn’t installed because primary isn’t installed, primary isn’t installed because I’ve been waiting on the following. Need transmission offset 1/2” 23T gear, Need 1/4 & 3/16 shims for rear sprocket, need 50 thou spacer for solid engine sprocket. None of those things are exactly available from most any parts supplier (certainly not over night prime amazon).. so I wait, and wait…………. and wait. Not one of these items has trickled in, and there from three different suppliers. Oh and freaking need Allen head 7/16 14 1.25” long bolts for rear sprocket! Tried every hardware store in a 50 mile radius. Regular bolts won’t fit offset rear sprocket. It was never this hard when I was younger into this hobby. Great part stores were around the corner, hardware stores had nice fastners.. everything you needed was local, now NOTHING is local. All three bike shops that use to be here Harley included) are all out of business. And the closest Harley dealer doesn’t have ANYTHING for an evo bike, I mean nothing. 20 years went buy before I was willing to give a dealer a penny and I walk in to be treated like crap because I don’t want a new plastic looking computer operated 30K bike or a $40 T-shirt. Parts people were tantamount to what it would be like going into Joanne Fabrics and asking for a clutch push rod.

 

Try Mid USA and Jireh Cycles for all that stuff, been using both since the 80's, same goods the bigger drop ship names like JP hustle but a lot cheaper. Get me the ID dimensions on the engine sprocket spacer the and the rear. I probably have them. Got a hoard of that stuff.

Bolts you can get from an industrial supplier like Graingers or Fastenal, but have to ask these going into a spoked or mag wheel ? You may want to skip the allens and go grade 8.

 

latest update is Monday I “should” have the parts. Course today I could work on the Bike, Monday and Tuesday I can’t..

Really cool of you though. JP is massive and an hour 20 drive but believe it or not they hardly ever have anything I need in stock… it’s always somewhere else in a mysterious warehouse that takes even longer to get.

This is a dished 46T chain sprocket. The Allen’s I ordered are supposed to be grade 8 equivalent. Black and not chrome.. but I’ll take it. Engine Sprocket Spacer and transmission offset 23T sprocket are both coming from Volcan and should be here Before Wednesday.

‘While I’m at it… the freakin floating disc rotor on the front is just rubbing the lyndall brake pads? The keepers that attach the inner to the brake surface of the rotors are what’s rubbing. Would you just clearance the pads? I really don’t wanna fool with sending these rotors back and then wait on something else..

just gonna send these aftermarket rotors back… they just don’t fit regardless of what they say.