Another Clunking Discussion
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 158
Likes: 32
Another Clunking Discussion
Those of us with the later model softails that have the clunking front end have heard and probably done the, remove the cap, tighten to nut to 100 ft pounds etc. I think when we do this, we are simply doing a work around for a problem that still exists. I tightened the nut down about 2 months ago on my '07 Deuce. About a week ago, I heard and felt it again. This time, I decided to go a little further. If you take the cover and nut and washer off, it is really obvious that the hole in the upper triple tree clamp is considerably larger than the steering stem.
I picked up a piece of PVC (It was a union for a 1 inch) and cut about 3/16 off one end and then cut that one so I could adjust the diameter. Once I got the thing pretty close, I just set a socket over the stem and tapped the new bushing in place. This took up all the play in the clamp and will solve the clunk forever. I torqued the clamp nut to the manual specific torque and went for a ride. Probably my imagination, but the little Deuce felt pretty precise in the front end. I would venture to say that the flexing of the clamp on the steering stem was probably occurring evertime there was stress on it to some degree.
When you have a few extra mintues, give this a try. Pretty simple fix for a pretty stupid design flaw. Ken
I picked up a piece of PVC (It was a union for a 1 inch) and cut about 3/16 off one end and then cut that one so I could adjust the diameter. Once I got the thing pretty close, I just set a socket over the stem and tapped the new bushing in place. This took up all the play in the clamp and will solve the clunk forever. I torqued the clamp nut to the manual specific torque and went for a ride. Probably my imagination, but the little Deuce felt pretty precise in the front end. I would venture to say that the flexing of the clamp on the steering stem was probably occurring evertime there was stress on it to some degree.
When you have a few extra mintues, give this a try. Pretty simple fix for a pretty stupid design flaw. Ken
Banned
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,706
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From: Woodstock, Ont , Can
RE: Another Clunking Discussion
The clunking could be from the bearings not tight enough in the head. Tightening the nut on the top is not for that purpose. It only tightens the upper clamp to the bearing nut, which is down in the slot of the upper clamp where you put the plastic pin in. The lower fork pinch bolts need to be loosened prior to any adjustments or likely nothing will happen in regards to torquing the head bearings. Then torque the big nut on the top to spec. Finish with torquing the fork bolts in the lower tripple tree.
The other source of clunking , as in my 07 fxstc is the headlight innards bottoming out on the mounting plate inside the shell. Disassembly will show the impact marks on the grey plastic shell. I had to cut off 1/4" from the front of the metal plate to stop the loud clunk when hitting sharp bumps.
Ron
The other source of clunking , as in my 07 fxstc is the headlight innards bottoming out on the mounting plate inside the shell. Disassembly will show the impact marks on the grey plastic shell. I had to cut off 1/4" from the front of the metal plate to stop the loud clunk when hitting sharp bumps.
Ron
May our Moderator Rest in Peace
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,386
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From: Rochester, NY
RE: Another Clunking Discussion
Could you two guys be really nice and post some pics of exactly what your talking about for us lesswell enlightened garage mechanics? I mean Iunderstand in generalwhat your talking about..But I'm not to sure I understand the specifics of the headlight insides, or eaxctly where the PVC spacer goes.
Thanks
Frank
Thanks
Frank
Banned
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,706
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From: Woodstock, Ont , Can
RE: Another Clunking Discussion
Frank: In regards to the headlight, if you gently hit the light on the top with your hand and hear a clunk the grey reflector headlamp shell is hitting the front edge of the chrome bracket where the rubber mounts are attached. There will be a thin black line where it has been contacting the chrome mounting bracket. I find the rubber mounts as being too soft and the headlamp moves quite a bit and will bottom out at the front. Shimming, stiffer rubbers, or as I did, cut 1/4" off the front of the chrome plate allowing more room to move. If you have this clunk in the light, disassemble it and it will be self explanitory as to why. Head bearings are adjusted with the nut that's under the top tripple clamp, not the big one under the spin off cover. The space that shovel52 is putting the plastic spacer into is the area needed to get down to the bearing nut to make the adjustment. If you look down in the space you will see notches for the special wrench, or homemade tool for this task. This nut also has a short pilot area for the upper tripple clamp to center it. The big nut under the spin off cap is for attaching the upper tripple tree only. Adjustments to head bearings can only be done if the two bolts that clamp the fork tubes to the lower tripple clamp are loosened first and only retorqued after the top tripple tree is tightened. I've seen several references to tightening the head bearings with the nut under the cap. If the dealer is doing this, he's an idiot and clearly don't understand how things work in the world. The service manual is not very specific in this area of adjustment which can cause some improper techniques to be applied.
Ron
Ron
May our Moderator Rest in Peace
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,386
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From: Rochester, NY
RE: Another Clunking Discussion
Thanks Ron,
I can always count on you to give me the straight poop.
Now in reading what you said about the stem nut setup I though I understood it. But looking at my parts manual (love those exploded drawings) I'm a bit confused. The drawings showonly one nut with lock washer under the spin on chrome cover.
As it is the only nut under there I "believe" that it is what everyone is saying you need to tighten up and looking at the drawing it makes sense.
But I have to say that you are ABSOLUTLY RIGHT,if you don't loosen the fork leg clamps on the lower tree. You "may" tighten it up, temporarily. But your alsoscrewing things up because your actually twisiting thetriple trees unevenly with the rear being closer than the front. This kind ofnonesense can put a big off center load on both of the bearings and that is not very good for them.
The more it needs to be tightened the worse the offside loading will be and the faster the bearings will be damaged.
I can always count on you to give me the straight poop.
Now in reading what you said about the stem nut setup I though I understood it. But looking at my parts manual (love those exploded drawings) I'm a bit confused. The drawings showonly one nut with lock washer under the spin on chrome cover.
As it is the only nut under there I "believe" that it is what everyone is saying you need to tighten up and looking at the drawing it makes sense.
But I have to say that you are ABSOLUTLY RIGHT,if you don't loosen the fork leg clamps on the lower tree. You "may" tighten it up, temporarily. But your alsoscrewing things up because your actually twisiting thetriple trees unevenly with the rear being closer than the front. This kind ofnonesense can put a big off center load on both of the bearings and that is not very good for them.
The more it needs to be tightened the worse the offside loading will be and the faster the bearings will be damaged.
Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,280
Likes: 2
From: SC
RE: Another Clunking Discussion
Yes Citoriplus you are correct. My 07 custom clunked like hell. I brought it back to the dealer and they tightened the nut four times, and the clunk still came back. Then moco came out with a tech note to replace the lower sliders. I had that done (went chrome) and I donât have any more clunk. BTW the chrome lowers only cost me $16.00, that is the price difference in price from the original and the chrome lowers.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 158
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RE: Another Clunking Discussion
I didn't take any pics when I was jacking around with the upper clamp. When you unscrew the chrome cover and take the big nut loose and remove the lock washer, it should be pretty clear that the stem extending through the upper clamp is a whole bunch smaller than the hole it goes through in the clamp. To me, it looks like this is just wrong. I will say that I rode the Deuce last night about 100 miles and it feels a whole lot better. I don't have any of the sound that I used to have and the upper nut is torqued to 35 ft lbs. It is a pretty easy fix. The next time I pull the thing apart, I will take a photo, but I think you will see it if you just take it apart a little. You don't have to remove anything but the stem nut cover, stem nut and washer to do it. Ken
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Banned
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,706
Likes: 7
From: Woodstock, Ont , Can
RE: Another Clunking Discussion
There is a thin nut under the upper tripple clamp for the bearing tension. The big nut under the spin on cover is to attach the upper clamp against the bearing nut.The upper tripple clamp is tightened against the lower bearing nut, which has a pilot section onit to center the upper clamp.It's only about 1/8-3/16" high. Look under the upper tripple clamp to where the clamp and neck of the frame join. See what appears to be teeth close to the upper clamp. This is the bearing nut.
For adjustment purposes, I use my fxstc.
1 remove spin on chrome cap
2 loosen fork tube pinch bolts on lower tripple clamp
3 loosen big nut on top tripple clamp
4 with a really good narrow flat screwdriver up against the tooth of the bearing nut tighten until all front end play is removed bytapping the screwdriver with a small hammer. Check for drop off if you are into that sort of thing or just add a couple more taps with hammer once all bearing play is taken out. Don't over tighten it or you will ***** the bearings. Main goal is to remove all play in the bearing assembly.
5 Torque the upper tripple clamp nut and secure with mickey mouse harley locking device.
6Retorque lower tripple clamp pinch bolts for fork tubes.
7 Install chrome cover
8 Get on bike and feel front end for being correct for turning and wheel and handlebars square and thenroad test.
9 On the road, wonder why a friggin Harley tech can't figure out how to adjust a simple thing like this?
Ron
For adjustment purposes, I use my fxstc.
1 remove spin on chrome cap
2 loosen fork tube pinch bolts on lower tripple clamp
3 loosen big nut on top tripple clamp
4 with a really good narrow flat screwdriver up against the tooth of the bearing nut tighten until all front end play is removed bytapping the screwdriver with a small hammer. Check for drop off if you are into that sort of thing or just add a couple more taps with hammer once all bearing play is taken out. Don't over tighten it or you will ***** the bearings. Main goal is to remove all play in the bearing assembly.
5 Torque the upper tripple clamp nut and secure with mickey mouse harley locking device.
6Retorque lower tripple clamp pinch bolts for fork tubes.
7 Install chrome cover
8 Get on bike and feel front end for being correct for turning and wheel and handlebars square and thenroad test.
9 On the road, wonder why a friggin Harley tech can't figure out how to adjust a simple thing like this?
Ron
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 435
Likes: 0
From: Beaver Dam, KY
RE: Another Clunking Discussion
Can I get a copy of the "tech note" from MOCO? If this is the case, maybe I could get it done to mine also. It clunks like hell, and I've been wanting to switch over to chrome sliders anyway. Maybe my meal ticket.