Fatboy Wont Idle
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Stage II
Joined: Aug 2023
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From: Florida
Fatboy Wont Idle
Hi. My ‘04 Fatboy just gave me a few codes that I’m not really sure how to interpret. Any help would be greatly appreciated. P0505, Loss of idle speed control. And P0562, Battery voltage low. I’ve had rough idle and stalls at idle after it warms up for weeks now. I started with the simple things and worked my way in. I’ve replaced the Air Idle Control Module, Throttle Positioning Sensor, cleaned the Throttle Body, Engine Temp Sensor, Battery, both Fuel Injectors, Stator, Voltage Regulator.Nothing helped. Took it to a Harley dealership, and when they took the seat off, they saw the Revtech Digital Fuel Optimizer that came on the bike when I bought it. They said that was the problem, they go bad. My bike won’t idle. It’s running rich, with dry black sooty spark plugs, you can smell the gas in the exhaust, and my fuel mileage has been cut in half. If I don’t keep a little throttle on it at a red light, it will just shut off like I hit the kill switch. I installed a new DFO, hoping that it would go back to normal. It still won’t idle, but it runs smoother now, my fuel mileage is back up, and I don’t smell gas in my exhaust anymore. But now I’m pulling these codes, where I didn’t have them before. I’m also getting a b1006, and b1007. I’m stumped. Anyone have an idea what wrong with my poor bike ?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,298
Likes: 6,324
From: Honah Lee
Why do you need the DFO? My 94 Softail runs fine with the stock ECM. Is that still on the bike?
Clear all the codes and see what comes back.
PS.. Welcome to the HDFORUM.
Clear all the codes and see what comes back.
PS.. Welcome to the HDFORUM.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Oct 22, 2024 at 04:26 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,064
Likes: 11,081
From: San Diego, CA
First... I mean this in a good way, but stop throwing random parts at your bike! That can get expensive and never get your bike properly fixed. Take the time to diagnose the issue before switching parts, and you will be happier in the long run, probably have more $$$ in your pockets, and have a good running bike.
There is nothing wrong with adding newer parts to an older bike as preventative maintenance if you want to, but do it after you have found the reason(s) for your issue(s). A swapped out part that is defective (it happens) or an installation issue (damage a connector, bump a connector, pull a wire on an adjoining part) will just complicate the diagnosis of the original issue....
IMHO, I am not a fan of piggyback tuning devices. The little reading I just did, suggests the Revtech Digital Fuel Optimizer is not the best piggyback tuner available. The big change in your over fueling issues when you installed another one, suggests your older module went bad... that does happen. Did you take the time to set up the new one to your bike?
The new codes, b1006 & b1007 suggest an electrical issue. Anytime there is an electrical issue, I start with the battery. Do a load test, not just a voltage check. I also check all battery cables, both ends, and pay special attention to the ground cable connections. Make sure the one to the frame is clean, and tight. Also check the insulation near the connectors to look for signs of cable damage under the insulation.
B1006 "accessory line over voltage" & B1007 "ignition line over voltage" specifically suggests to me a bad ground or bad voltage regulator. Once you verify your 12 volt source as I mentioned above, again paying special attention battery and other grounds (like the voltage regulator), perform a voltage regulator check. It is easy and you only need a multi-meter to get it done.
Over voltage is usually the voltage regulator, but it wouldn't hurt to check your stator while you are at it. The triangle of battery, stator, and voltage regulator are all interdependent. A problem with one of the three, could cause a failure to one or both of the other components.
Anyway, this will show you how to check your voltage regulator.
Good luck with your diagnosis and repair... Keep us posted..
There is nothing wrong with adding newer parts to an older bike as preventative maintenance if you want to, but do it after you have found the reason(s) for your issue(s). A swapped out part that is defective (it happens) or an installation issue (damage a connector, bump a connector, pull a wire on an adjoining part) will just complicate the diagnosis of the original issue....
IMHO, I am not a fan of piggyback tuning devices. The little reading I just did, suggests the Revtech Digital Fuel Optimizer is not the best piggyback tuner available. The big change in your over fueling issues when you installed another one, suggests your older module went bad... that does happen. Did you take the time to set up the new one to your bike?
The new codes, b1006 & b1007 suggest an electrical issue. Anytime there is an electrical issue, I start with the battery. Do a load test, not just a voltage check. I also check all battery cables, both ends, and pay special attention to the ground cable connections. Make sure the one to the frame is clean, and tight. Also check the insulation near the connectors to look for signs of cable damage under the insulation.
B1006 "accessory line over voltage" & B1007 "ignition line over voltage" specifically suggests to me a bad ground or bad voltage regulator. Once you verify your 12 volt source as I mentioned above, again paying special attention battery and other grounds (like the voltage regulator), perform a voltage regulator check. It is easy and you only need a multi-meter to get it done.
Over voltage is usually the voltage regulator, but it wouldn't hurt to check your stator while you are at it. The triangle of battery, stator, and voltage regulator are all interdependent. A problem with one of the three, could cause a failure to one or both of the other components.
Anyway, this will show you how to check your voltage regulator.
Good luck with your diagnosis and repair... Keep us posted..
Last edited by hattitude; Oct 22, 2024 at 09:06 AM.
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