replacing handle bar ??
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 116
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replacing handle bar ??
i want to change the handlebars on my 07 fxst to either the streetslammers or a drag bar ,the stealer wanted 1300 to do the job including the bars LOL i want to do the job myself but im confused ??? ive read about internal wiring but if i dont want to run the wires threw the handlebars dont i just take off the throddle side and the brake side and just replace them on the new bars or do i still have to run wires through the bars ???? thats if i can find drag bars that all the cable dont have to be replaced ... hope this all makes sense to you
Banned
Joined: Jan 2008
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From:
RE: replacing handle bar ??
Harley sells a drag bar kit that comes with risers, cables and everything that you need to do the job. They aren't internally wired. It's basically the stuff that they put on Night Trains.
It'll also come with instructions on how to put it on.
It'll also come with instructions on how to put it on.
May our Moderator Rest in Peace
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,386
Likes: 35
From: Rochester, NY
RE: replacing handle bar ??
You don't have to do anything more than you described. The hard part is that you just have to lift or remove the tank to get at the connections. Otherwise its not all that hard to do, just takes a little time and patience, but $1300 sounds a bit much to me.
Putting the wires inside can be a pain it the A$$, but its not necessary, just looks a lot better and can protect them from damage caused by external things, rocks, rain,and such.
Putting the wires inside can be a pain it the A$$, but its not necessary, just looks a lot better and can protect them from damage caused by external things, rocks, rain,and such.
Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 734
Likes: 1
From: Nova Scotia
RE: replacing handle bar ??
First question. Why wouldn't you want to run the wires internally? I'm in the process now of replacing my stock bars on my '08 Fatty with a set of drag bars. It's not difficult at all. It is just time consuming, that is why the dealer wants so much. I was quoted 5hrs @ $80/hr. I said fug that, I'll do it myself. I amover the 5 hr mark, but I do what I can when I can.I was a little intimidated at first, but with the manual and extra help from people here, it's a piece of cake truthfully. If you don't have the service manual, get it. It is worth it's weight in gold, not really but close. It's just a little time consuming at times.
To get at the wiring connections, you can just raise the front as some have suggested. I didn't do that as I like to have ample room to work with, so I removed the tank. Get a camera and take pictures of what color wire come out of what hole. Just to be safe, I made diagrams as well. Take off the plug ends and pull the wire through the bars after you have the controls off. While waiting for my bars, I moved the signal lights from the bars to the sides of the forks. Now if only my bars will show up, I will put it all back together. Total cost so far...... ziltch. My only cost for this mod will be the bars. You can learn a lot about your bike and save tons of money by doing it yourself. Good luck and give it a try. It is very rewarding to do something like this yourself.
To get at the wiring connections, you can just raise the front as some have suggested. I didn't do that as I like to have ample room to work with, so I removed the tank. Get a camera and take pictures of what color wire come out of what hole. Just to be safe, I made diagrams as well. Take off the plug ends and pull the wire through the bars after you have the controls off. While waiting for my bars, I moved the signal lights from the bars to the sides of the forks. Now if only my bars will show up, I will put it all back together. Total cost so far...... ziltch. My only cost for this mod will be the bars. You can learn a lot about your bike and save tons of money by doing it yourself. Good luck and give it a try. It is very rewarding to do something like this yourself.
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,727
Likes: 2
From: North Carolina
RE: replacing handle bar ??
I just replaced my bars last night. It took me 2.5 hours from the time I drained the tank, til the time I fired it back up to make sure everything was right. It's better to remove the tank, but that takes 20 minutes if it's got gas, 10 minutes if it doesn't.Internally routing the harness is easy too. Once you remove the pins from the connectors (againveryeasy) remove all but about 6 inches of the harness sheathing. Tape off the holes on your new bars except for the hole at the riser and the hole at the bar for whatever side you route first. Using a vaccuumcleaner, suck one end of a shoestring throughthe bar end til it exits the hole in the riser.Using a THIN strip of duct tape, tape the pins to the shoestring in such a way that it not only attaches to the string, but protects the pins. Then slowly, and jiggling it back and forth if needed, pull the harness through the bar. Then simply slide some of your leftover sheathing back over the harness and into the exit hole in the riser to protect the wires. Do the other side the same way, mount your bars, and replace the pins in the connectors.............piece of cake!
Banned
Joined: Jan 2008
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From:
RE: replacing handle bar ??
ORIGINAL: mojojones
I just replaced my bars last night. It took me 2.5 hours from the time I drained the tank, til the time I fired it back up to make sure everything was right. It's better to remove the tank, but that takes 20 minutes if it's got gas, 10 minutes if it doesn't.Internally routing the harness is easy too. Once you remove the pins from the connectors (againveryeasy) remove all but about 6 inches of the harness sheathing. Tape off the holes on your new bars except for the hole at the riser and the hole at the bar for whatever side you route first. Using a vaccuumcleaner, suck one end of a shoestring throughthe bar end til it exits the hole in the riser.Using a THIN strip of duct tape, tape the pins to the shoestring in such a way that it not only attaches to the string, but protects the pins. Then slowly, and jiggling it back and forth if needed, pull the harness through the bar. Then simply slide some of your leftover sheathing back over the harness and into the exit hole in the riser to protect the wires. Do the other side the same way, mount your bars, and replace the pins in the connectors.............piece of cake!
I just replaced my bars last night. It took me 2.5 hours from the time I drained the tank, til the time I fired it back up to make sure everything was right. It's better to remove the tank, but that takes 20 minutes if it's got gas, 10 minutes if it doesn't.Internally routing the harness is easy too. Once you remove the pins from the connectors (againveryeasy) remove all but about 6 inches of the harness sheathing. Tape off the holes on your new bars except for the hole at the riser and the hole at the bar for whatever side you route first. Using a vaccuumcleaner, suck one end of a shoestring throughthe bar end til it exits the hole in the riser.Using a THIN strip of duct tape, tape the pins to the shoestring in such a way that it not only attaches to the string, but protects the pins. Then slowly, and jiggling it back and forth if needed, pull the harness through the bar. Then simply slide some of your leftover sheathing back over the harness and into the exit hole in the riser to protect the wires. Do the other side the same way, mount your bars, and replace the pins in the connectors.............piece of cake!
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Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,727
Likes: 2
From: North Carolina
RE: replacing handle bar ??
ORIGINAL: The Baron
I'm just wonderin' how easy wires are gonna slide through these!
ORIGINAL: mojojones
I just replaced my bars last night. It took me 2.5 hours from the time I drained the tank, til the time I fired it back up to make sure everything was right. It's better to remove the tank, but that takes 20 minutes if it's got gas, 10 minutes if it doesn't.Internally routing the harness is easy too. Once you remove the pins from the connectors (againveryeasy) remove all but about 6 inches of the harness sheathing. Tape off the holes on your new bars except for the hole at the riser and the hole at the bar for whatever side you route first. Using a vaccuumcleaner, suck one end of a shoestring throughthe bar end til it exits the hole in the riser.Using a THIN strip of duct tape, tape the pins to the shoestring in such a way that it not only attaches to the string, but protects the pins. Then slowly, and jiggling it back and forth if needed, pull the harness through the bar. Then simply slide some of your leftover sheathing back over the harness and into the exit hole in the riser to protect the wires. Do the other side the same way, mount your bars, and replace the pins in the connectors.............piece of cake!
I just replaced my bars last night. It took me 2.5 hours from the time I drained the tank, til the time I fired it back up to make sure everything was right. It's better to remove the tank, but that takes 20 minutes if it's got gas, 10 minutes if it doesn't.Internally routing the harness is easy too. Once you remove the pins from the connectors (againveryeasy) remove all but about 6 inches of the harness sheathing. Tape off the holes on your new bars except for the hole at the riser and the hole at the bar for whatever side you route first. Using a vaccuumcleaner, suck one end of a shoestring throughthe bar end til it exits the hole in the riser.Using a THIN strip of duct tape, tape the pins to the shoestring in such a way that it not only attaches to the string, but protects the pins. Then slowly, and jiggling it back and forth if needed, pull the harness through the bar. Then simply slide some of your leftover sheathing back over the harness and into the exit hole in the riser to protect the wires. Do the other side the same way, mount your bars, and replace the pins in the connectors.............piece of cake!
You have my sympathies.............[&:]
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