Drive Belt Adjustment
#1
#2
RE: Drive Belt Adjustment
My owners manual advises to do checkon sidestand.
The 07 workshop manual does not specify that you need in the air but does give the deflection for on the ground and raised.
I would prefer to do raised as there is no weight on the rear tire and adjusting should then be easier and I believe more correct.
It advises for
FXST/FLSTC/FLSTF/FXSTB/FLSTSC/FXSTC
On jiffy stand. 9/16-5/8 in. (14.3-15.9 mm)
Veh upright and wheel off ground. 11/16-3/4 in. (17.5-19.0 mm)
FLSTN/FXSTD
On Jiffy stand. 1/4-5/16 in. (6.4-7.9mm)
Veh upright and wheel off ground. 5/16-3/8 in. (7.9-9.5 mm)
Hope this helps.
The 07 workshop manual does not specify that you need in the air but does give the deflection for on the ground and raised.
I would prefer to do raised as there is no weight on the rear tire and adjusting should then be easier and I believe more correct.
It advises for
FXST/FLSTC/FLSTF/FXSTB/FLSTSC/FXSTC
On jiffy stand. 9/16-5/8 in. (14.3-15.9 mm)
Veh upright and wheel off ground. 11/16-3/4 in. (17.5-19.0 mm)
FLSTN/FXSTD
On Jiffy stand. 1/4-5/16 in. (6.4-7.9mm)
Veh upright and wheel off ground. 5/16-3/8 in. (7.9-9.5 mm)
Hope this helps.
#3
RE: Drive Belt Adjustment
Thanks BlackDragon....I have the service manual and basically got the same thing.I will go by the dealerTuesday and talk to the service manager, he is a straight up guy,he is more interested ittrying to keep their customers happy than selling stuff they don't need. I really need to get the tool to check belt adjustment too...Thanks again
#4
RE: Drive Belt Adjustment
I have always adjusted chains with the bikes weight on the rear.
The entire reason for the slack is so that the rear swing arm can go from weight on the rear and still have enough slack so the rear suspension can move without the chain/belt binding.
I use to adjust chains to spec with just the bike weight and then when I went to the track the inspectors told me with my sitting on the bike I was too tight. This made sense in that if it was tight with me sitting on it the chain didn't have enough slack to move with any bumps.
My ramblings is just trying to say that if a 120lb person and a 250lb ride the same bike the belt needs to be adjusted different for each, imho and experience.
The entire reason for the slack is so that the rear swing arm can go from weight on the rear and still have enough slack so the rear suspension can move without the chain/belt binding.
I use to adjust chains to spec with just the bike weight and then when I went to the track the inspectors told me with my sitting on the bike I was too tight. This made sense in that if it was tight with me sitting on it the chain didn't have enough slack to move with any bumps.
My ramblings is just trying to say that if a 120lb person and a 250lb ride the same bike the belt needs to be adjusted different for each, imho and experience.
#5
#6
#7
RE: Drive Belt Adjustment
Geoseismic's advice makes perfectly good sense to me. Whether belt or chain, whatever the "normal" stretch/load is would be the optimal tension setting.
Only thing that bites is that it may require buying someone a beer and waiting until tomorrow when dude gets off work...
Only thing that bites is that it may require buying someone a beer and waiting until tomorrow when dude gets off work...
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