When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
you didn't mention if you got a tune(SE race tuner, Fuel Pak, Power commander III, etc). \\;\\\\\\;\\\\\\\\\\\\\\; absolutely required when you do a stage I and exhaust replacement.
 \\;\\\\\\;\\\\\\\\\\\\\\;
 \\;\\\\\\;
just a side note. \\;\\\\\\; I went with the PCIII over the SE race tuner since the PCIII has MANY more canned tunes available online than the SE tuner does. \\;\\\\\\; They found my exact exhaust, Big Bore 103, piston size, cylinder heads, etc. in a tune that had already been done, online, so I didn't have to pay for several hours of tuning time to tweak my setup..
 \\;\\\\\\;
the popping is definitely NOT normal. \\;\\\\\\;\\\\\\\\\\\\\\; got my BR 2-into-1 installed a couple of days ago along with a power commander III....just sweet V-twin music in my right ear....
Actually popping is pretty common. If you have a PCIII just adjust the \\;0 position throttle setting. I added 20 to mine and a little bit to the 2 position and it runs great now with rarely ever a pop. Some people have to put negative numbers like -20 in the 0 position. Just play around with the 0 position which is the closed throttle settings and see if it helps with the popping. You won't hurt anything and if you aren't satisfied then just put all the numbers back to what they were. It's very simple.
I just called 2 different dealers....evidently they dont know what needs to be done either...one said you need a chip even if you change only the air filter and the other said you dont need to add a chip unless you want additional tunability.
The engines already run lean just being stock, changing the air filter adds even more air and makes it run even leaner. If you have changed the air filter to a high flow one then you definately need to do domething to change the fuel mixture be \\;\\\\\\; it a Fuelpak, PC III or Sert.
 \\;
For stage I and stock pipes you need at least the Stage I download. \\; You change the pipes, and you need a tuner (ala PCIII or Sert) or it will pop like hell because of the increased air flow. \\; I started with a PCIII but went to SERT with the 103 build. \\; Both work very well, SERT doesn't require an additional device to be installed. \\;
Also make sure you check the tightness of your exhaust. A \\; guy at work put some pipes on his VTX1800 and was getting popping until he realized his exhaust wasn't bolted down tight.
Actually popping is pretty common. If you have a PCIII just adjust the \\;\\\\\\;0 position throttle setting. I added 20 to mine and a little bit to the 2 position and it runs great now with rarely ever a pop. Some people have to put negative numbers like -20 in the 0 position. Just play around with the 0 position which is the closed throttle settings and see if it helps with the popping. You won't hurt anything and if you aren't satisfied then just put all the numbers back to what they were. It's very simple.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.