Normal Pull to the Left BS
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 183
Likes: 21
From: Arthur, IL
When you tried to twist the forks into alignment, you should have also loosened the axle clamp bolts. I did and could see the trees twisting as I twisted the forks. When they are set where you want them, tighten the fork caps, check alignment again, then tighten tree pinch bolts. That should hold them straight while you tighten everything else back up.
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 530
Likes: 2
From: Hereford, Arizona
There is a whole lot of interaction between the front and rear going on. Adjustments all over the place and each one affects the other.
The service manual is an absolute joke when it comes to vehicle alignment.
My steering head bearings are fairly tight as I took the bike in after the 1st 100 miles because of major clunking over bumps. Doing the fall away I'm out of spec a bit on the tight side.
flstcbob, thanks for the heads up on the loosening of the axle. I didn't do that. I loosened everything but the axle.
I'm going to get that pesky rear set right and now I'll have one more trick to pull off thanks to you.
This bike will track perfectly when I'm done. Too sad that I can't take it in under warranty. I mean I could but I have a life to live and a life to ride and that means not waiting on HD to make it right.
Besides, they'd just say it's in spec and normal to travel down the road crooked because the primary is heavy.
Talk about BS! I pulled my HEAVY fatboy pipes off and bolted Samson's on saving me 10 lbs and the pull to the left didn't change a bit. So much for weight being a factor.
The wheels are HUGE gyros (especially the new fatboy wheels) that go in the direction that they're aimed. If both aren't aimed straight you have an alignment issue and a pulling problem.
Maybe this thread will progress to a final answer to the pull to the left problem that everyone can reference. I sure hope so because I'll be updating all the way to perfect alignment.
Today I carefully sighted down on my front tire tread wear. I only have 1300 miles but I could already see that the front is wearing on the right side of the tire which confirms the pull to the left. That's normal right?
The service manual is an absolute joke when it comes to vehicle alignment.
My steering head bearings are fairly tight as I took the bike in after the 1st 100 miles because of major clunking over bumps. Doing the fall away I'm out of spec a bit on the tight side.
flstcbob, thanks for the heads up on the loosening of the axle. I didn't do that. I loosened everything but the axle.
I'm going to get that pesky rear set right and now I'll have one more trick to pull off thanks to you.
This bike will track perfectly when I'm done. Too sad that I can't take it in under warranty. I mean I could but I have a life to live and a life to ride and that means not waiting on HD to make it right.
Besides, they'd just say it's in spec and normal to travel down the road crooked because the primary is heavy.
Talk about BS! I pulled my HEAVY fatboy pipes off and bolted Samson's on saving me 10 lbs and the pull to the left didn't change a bit. So much for weight being a factor.
The wheels are HUGE gyros (especially the new fatboy wheels) that go in the direction that they're aimed. If both aren't aimed straight you have an alignment issue and a pulling problem.
Maybe this thread will progress to a final answer to the pull to the left problem that everyone can reference. I sure hope so because I'll be updating all the way to perfect alignment.
Today I carefully sighted down on my front tire tread wear. I only have 1300 miles but I could already see that the front is wearing on the right side of the tire which confirms the pull to the left. That's normal right?
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 8,438
Likes: 6
From: Gulf Coast of Mississippi
There is a whole lot of interaction between the front and rear going on. Adjustments all over the place and each one affects the other.
The service manual is an absolute joke when it comes to vehicle alignment.
My steering head bearings are fairly tight as I took the bike in after the 1st 100 miles because of major clunking over bumps. Doing the fall away I'm out of spec a bit on the tight side.
flstcbob, thanks for the heads up on the loosening of the axle. I didn't do that. I loosened everything but the axle.
I'm going to get that pesky rear set right and now I'll have one more trick to pull off thanks to you.
This bike will track perfectly when I'm done. Too sad that I can't take it in under warranty. I mean I could but I have a life to live and a life to ride and that means not waiting on HD to make it right.
Besides, they'd just say it's in spec and normal to travel down the road crooked because the primary is heavy.
Talk about BS! I pulled my HEAVY fatboy pipes off and bolted Samson's on saving me 10 lbs and the pull to the left didn't change a bit. So much for weight being a factor.
The wheels are HUGE gyros (especially the new fatboy wheels) that go in the direction that they're aimed. If both aren't aimed straight you have an alignment issue and a pulling problem.
Maybe this thread will progress to a final answer to the pull to the left problem that everyone can reference. I sure hope so because I'll be updating all the way to perfect alignment.
Today I carefully sighted down on my front tire tread wear. I only have 1300 miles but I could already see that the front is wearing on the right side of the tire which confirms the pull to the left. That's normal right?
The service manual is an absolute joke when it comes to vehicle alignment.
My steering head bearings are fairly tight as I took the bike in after the 1st 100 miles because of major clunking over bumps. Doing the fall away I'm out of spec a bit on the tight side.
flstcbob, thanks for the heads up on the loosening of the axle. I didn't do that. I loosened everything but the axle.
I'm going to get that pesky rear set right and now I'll have one more trick to pull off thanks to you.
This bike will track perfectly when I'm done. Too sad that I can't take it in under warranty. I mean I could but I have a life to live and a life to ride and that means not waiting on HD to make it right.
Besides, they'd just say it's in spec and normal to travel down the road crooked because the primary is heavy.
Talk about BS! I pulled my HEAVY fatboy pipes off and bolted Samson's on saving me 10 lbs and the pull to the left didn't change a bit. So much for weight being a factor.
The wheels are HUGE gyros (especially the new fatboy wheels) that go in the direction that they're aimed. If both aren't aimed straight you have an alignment issue and a pulling problem.
Maybe this thread will progress to a final answer to the pull to the left problem that everyone can reference. I sure hope so because I'll be updating all the way to perfect alignment.
Today I carefully sighted down on my front tire tread wear. I only have 1300 miles but I could already see that the front is wearing on the right side of the tire which confirms the pull to the left. That's normal right?
I've tried the rear tire adjustment myself... but the belt still on the left side of the pulley... I wrote Harley (for all the good that will do) so we will see what comes of that...
From just this one post it is obivous that it is not unheard of...
Charlie D.
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 530
Likes: 2
From: Hereford, Arizona
flstcbob I went ahead and loosened up everything and twisted the tire to the left (same direction I've been coaxing the rear). While holding the tire in position I tightened the pinch bolts on the fork tree and worked my way down. No change whatsoever.
I'm taking the bike into the dealer to remedy the stuck studs in the plates so I can adjust my rear shocks. I'll see what effect it has on tracking. I have high hopes that the rear shocks might be the final fix to the problem.
I'm REAL close now. I need very little lean to the right to hold it straight but the forks are still a scant turned to the right which still drives me crazy.
As it stands I'm exactly +1/32" out of spec on the rear wheel. I don't dare go any farther because it's making the brake rotor drag a bit on the pads which can't be good.
After the rear shock thing I don't see what else I can do.
Update:
I was able to break the shock plates free from the studs with some heat so I started experimenting with different tensions. First making the left side more relaxed than the right and then vice versa. No amount of adjustments had any effect on the pull to the left but my front forks look straighter now hands off. I'm guessing because I increased the spring tension to maximum from minimum.
The only other thing I think could be the culprit for the left pull is the Dunlop. Only because I had this experience before with a Dunlop. When the new tire is in need of replacement I'll go with another brand of the same size. Thinking Avon...
I'm taking the bike into the dealer to remedy the stuck studs in the plates so I can adjust my rear shocks. I'll see what effect it has on tracking. I have high hopes that the rear shocks might be the final fix to the problem.
I'm REAL close now. I need very little lean to the right to hold it straight but the forks are still a scant turned to the right which still drives me crazy.
As it stands I'm exactly +1/32" out of spec on the rear wheel. I don't dare go any farther because it's making the brake rotor drag a bit on the pads which can't be good.
After the rear shock thing I don't see what else I can do.
Update:
I was able to break the shock plates free from the studs with some heat so I started experimenting with different tensions. First making the left side more relaxed than the right and then vice versa. No amount of adjustments had any effect on the pull to the left but my front forks look straighter now hands off. I'm guessing because I increased the spring tension to maximum from minimum.
The only other thing I think could be the culprit for the left pull is the Dunlop. Only because I had this experience before with a Dunlop. When the new tire is in need of replacement I'll go with another brand of the same size. Thinking Avon...
Last edited by plane; Aug 21, 2008 at 08:19 PM.
Banned
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 643
Likes: 0
K, im gonna chime in now, this should help ya alot.
1. There are only a few things that will cause your bike to pull.
A. Front and rear wheel not aligned
B. Frame out of spec(semi common)
C. Swingarm pivot bolt overtorqued causing frame/swingarm assembly in rear to be slightly cocked/crooked/bent.
Assuming C has been checked there is still a possibility B is still in effect in which case you forget being in "spec" and just align rear wheel till the bike tracks straight, whether ur in spec or not.
1. There are only a few things that will cause your bike to pull.
A. Front and rear wheel not aligned
B. Frame out of spec(semi common)
C. Swingarm pivot bolt overtorqued causing frame/swingarm assembly in rear to be slightly cocked/crooked/bent.
Assuming C has been checked there is still a possibility B is still in effect in which case you forget being in "spec" and just align rear wheel till the bike tracks straight, whether ur in spec or not.
Last edited by SuperAhcmed; Aug 22, 2008 at 06:51 AM.
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 8,438
Likes: 6
From: Gulf Coast of Mississippi
To Update... on drifting left and letter to MOCO
Got a call from MOCO last evening... they are in the prelims in checking out what going on with the dealer and my bike...
They asked a lot of questions...
Anyway... they said I might have to take it to another dealer to get a second opinion and they would get back to me...
I don't have much confidence... but I guess I gotta play it out to the end...
Charlie D.
They asked a lot of questions...
Anyway... they said I might have to take it to another dealer to get a second opinion and they would get back to me...
I don't have much confidence... but I guess I gotta play it out to the end...
Charlie D.
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 530
Likes: 2
From: Hereford, Arizona
Keep us updated Charlie.
SuperAhcmed, I'll check the pivot bolt torque today but I would imagine it's probably correct from the factory.
As I had said before I can't go out of spec any more because the rotor starts binding in the caliper more and more as I go further out because the caliper is bolted to the swingarm.
SuperAhcmed, I'll check the pivot bolt torque today but I would imagine it's probably correct from the factory.
As I had said before I can't go out of spec any more because the rotor starts binding in the caliper more and more as I go further out because the caliper is bolted to the swingarm.