I just installed a set of Alloy Art Fender Strut Lights/Signals and I'm waiting on my Pro-One lightbar for the front. I did purchase a Badlands Load Equalizer III as suggested by others, but I have installed it yet. My question is why do I need the Load Equalizer? The Fender Strut signals seem to be working okay...or is it just for the front signals?

 

I only needed it for the front signals on mine.

 

I switched to rear led signals and added a converter so they would also function as brake and running lights. I was told that I needed a load equalizer, but because of a misprint in the add for the converter, I thought it would work as load equalizer also.
I called up the makers of the converter and they agreed their ad was misleading.
They suggested that after I installed the new lights and converter to do a momentary disconnect of the battery. When I reconnected the battery they said to activate the right turn signal for a few seconds then the left one. The ECM supposedly will adjust a certain amount. They said my signal may flash fast for a few seconds and then flash normally.
I did what they said and haven't had a problem in the 2 years since I put them on.
That was just switching rear signals. It might not work , without adding a load equalizer, if I switch any more lights.
Tom

 

Okay, but what purpose does it serve? The strange part is that the Badlands instructions of refer to "tapping" into the rear turn signal wires. Besides that, I can't even locate the wire coming from the security unit.

 

From what I understand....... if you start to have a lot of LED's on your bike, your lights in general may not work properly (like turn signals blinking real fast). At that point you would need an equalizer. I believe the equalizer allows a little more voltage to the lighting. Once you have all your lighting installed, if it all works fine, don't install the equalizer.

 

BTW.... those fender strut tip lights are nice. I'm running them also. I have 'em wired as brake lights. Very stealth looking. You almost have to point them out to people.

Attachment 3594

 

As I understand it the turn signal requires a certain amount of power draw to work properly. LED's I think draw less power causing the erratic or non-functionality of the turn signals. The equalizer makes the system think you are running standard incandescent bulbs.

 

What a coincidence, I also have a 2008 Night Train with the Alloy Art strut lights (powdercoated black wrinkle by metal_mike) and the Pro-One light bar up front. I didn't need an equalizer when all I had was the LED strut lights, but I assumed it was because I also had the tri-bar LED tail light (the rear turn signals wire into the tail light).

The reason you ordinarily need an equalizer is because the flashers are set to operate with a certain amount of resistance (and thus current load), which they do not get from LEDs. Incandescent bulbs draw much more current than LEDs. When you add the Pro-One up front you will certainly need an equlaizer because you will be going from a dual-filament to a single-filament configuration (hint: use the purple wire). The equalizer will restore normal flash rate and turn off your security indicator (if you have one). Even with the security indicator "on" the system will still function as normal.

HTH!

 

According to the Badlands III instructions; I need to locate a brown wire w/gray stripe that comes from the TSM. Does anyone know where this is located? Please tell me that I can get to it from beneath the seat.

 

You are obviously using a different type equalizer from what I have, but that wire is pin 1 on the 8-pin TSM/TSSM connector under the seat. You can also tap into it at the fusebox pins I-J (Battery fuse).