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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 12:35 AM
  #1  
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Default bike cutting out

i went for a ride yesterday and about 15 miles in the ride my bike started cutting out and then died, i pulled over let sit for a few minutes and it finally started, then later on it did the same thing, i have done a search on this and have checked the battery terminals, both were tight, it seems to be the coil or ignition module, the question i have is what do the numbers on the module mean? on the top left it reads 32449-95a across from that it reads 9607 bottom left is 1340 and aross from it rev. My bike is a 96 fxsts , do those numbers have to be exact on the module i get or can i just get one that is for a 96 evo 1340? also those screaming eagle modules seem to be pretty good priced are those pretty good? thanks in advance
 
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 10:03 AM
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any suggestions?
 
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 11:02 AM
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squirrelu
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a 96evo has points on it the points get hot and stay closed and will not open up till ti cools down you can go out and put on a new ingition system I had that problem on my 96 put on the crane hi-4 ingition system and all is good now.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 12:25 PM
  #4  
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Default Ignition

Huh? to points: my old '95 FXDL had electronic ignition. "it seems to be the coil or ignition module" My question is what makes you determine this? Did you perform tests? Does the cam position sensor (CMP) flash? "repair by replacement" can get expensive when it could be a RUN/STOP switch, VOES, bad wire or connection, etc.! 32449-95a is the part number for the component or can be ordered by year/model of bike and is "plug & play" (can replace yourself). Is this the ECM? The "ignition module" or CMP is located in the right engine side cover. Some tests to perform if haven't already:

*If “engine cranks but does not start”, first check module connection under crankcase and perform test #7: LED Flash. Check ignition coil connections. DVOM=multimeter
NOTE: Only item #7 is with BIKE RUNNING; all others bike NOT RUNNING but ignition ON as indicated for voltage checks.

1. BATTERY VOLTAGE WITH KEY ON___________VDC (13-14.7 VDC LOADED BATTERY VOLTAGE) DVOM LEADS TO BATTERY TERMINALS RECORD VALUE

2. POWER TO COIL________VDC (13-14.7 VDC 100% BATTERY VOLTAGE)
REMOVE W/BLK WIRE TO RIGHT-SIDE OF COIL RED LEAD TO W/BLK WIRE BLK LEAD TO GROUND RECORD VALUE

3. POWER FROM COIL_______VDC (BATTERY VOLTAGE)
RED LEAD TO PINK WIRE TO LEFT-SIDE OF COIL BLK LEAD TO GROUND RECORD VALUE

3a. COIL/WIRE RESISTANCE: PRIMARY 2.5-3.1 OHMS
SECONDARY 10,000-12,500 OHMS
SPARK WIRES=250-583 OHMS per inch

4. FLASH TEST: SPARK? YES NO
USING COIL TESTER AS SHOWN IN SERVICE MANUAL SECTION 8 BLK ALIGATOR TO PINK COIL WIRE O/W ALLIGATOR TO GROUND TOUCH ORANGE PROBE TO BLACK ALLIGATOR OBSERVE SPARK

5. POWER TO MODULE______VDC (BATTERY VOLTAGE)
DISCONNECT DEUTCH PLUG TO MODULE UNDER CRANKCASE/RIGHT SIDE OF FRAME REMOVE FEMALE-SIDE ORANGE RETAINER RED LEAD TO W/BLK FEMALE CONNECTOR BLK LEAD TO GROUND RECORD VALUE

6. MODULE GROUND_______OHMS (CONTINUITY)
RED LEAD TO BLK WIRE BLK LEAD TO GROUND RECORD VALUE

7. LED FLASH TEST: FLASHING? YES NO
RE-CONNECT DEUTCH PLUG TO MODULE WITH RUNNING BIKE, OBSERVE RED LED FLASHING ON MODULE
 
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 10:11 PM
  #5  
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thanks for the testing procedures, i have to get a voltmeter,and i will try those, i did take it out today to see if it would do it again, i was thinking it could be bad gas or something in the carb, i put carb cleaner in the tank, some good fuel and hit the road, it drove fine around town and on the highway until i got it to 70mph, then it acted lke it backed off a little then no throttle,it acted like the fuel was cut off, let it sit a few minutes and ran fine until i got it to 70 then the same thing, any ideas on that? thanks
 
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 10:35 PM
  #6  
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voes sensor
 
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 12:48 AM
  #7  
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From: Peoria, AZ
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Listed that one, CZ, in the "too many to list" section. Does sound like it's fine until hitting the highway (high RPM). Timing should be checked and VOES operation using test methods in the manual. Is the vent lines hooked up to the VOES, carb, and (if I remember right) to the fuel petcock? Have a service manual? Can't do without this otherwise everything you do is based on a guess vice a test (kind of like what I'm doing here!). Sometimes even the SM isn't enough and you need the Electrical Diagnosis Manual! There are really TOO many things that can cause this and TOO many to list: above tests are just some basic ones. CKP could be temperature sensitive, VOES (not advancing timing properly), timing, loose CMP connection, etc. etc.
 
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