Prep for internal wiring?
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Tourer
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 454
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From: West Metro, Minnesota
Prep for internal wiring?
Now that the weather has gone to crap.... I'm looking to finally get my bars wired internally...
I have dimpled drag bars and would like to know what I need to do as far as prep to get this project rolling... I have plenty of length in the cabling so I don't think I'll need to go the "cut and splice" route for any extra length... BUT... Is cutting, routing then soldering the easiest method?
Or should I pull the individual pins/wires from the connectors, then route the wires through the bars?
My "guess" is that I'll be drilling the bars on the inside end of the dimple then drilling an exit hole on the bottom of the bar, centered beneath the clamp... Any recommendations a far as drill dia?
Also... Once I have all the wires routed through the bars, is there any way to "cosmetically" run the wiring from the bars down to the frame? With 6" risers, that's a bit of wire to cover up! Are there any chrome covers available?
Any tip and tricks would be GREATLY appreciated!!! Thanks...
I have dimpled drag bars and would like to know what I need to do as far as prep to get this project rolling... I have plenty of length in the cabling so I don't think I'll need to go the "cut and splice" route for any extra length... BUT... Is cutting, routing then soldering the easiest method?
Or should I pull the individual pins/wires from the connectors, then route the wires through the bars?
My "guess" is that I'll be drilling the bars on the inside end of the dimple then drilling an exit hole on the bottom of the bar, centered beneath the clamp... Any recommendations a far as drill dia?
Also... Once I have all the wires routed through the bars, is there any way to "cosmetically" run the wiring from the bars down to the frame? With 6" risers, that's a bit of wire to cover up! Are there any chrome covers available?
Any tip and tricks would be GREATLY appreciated!!! Thanks...
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,359
Likes: 2
For a cleaner look and not to add to the bulkness of the wires remove each pin from the connector..
Can you drill the bars at the bottom where they connect to the riser then run them down the riser and drill as close to the tree from the riser? Dia I think should be about 3/8 or slightly smaller..
Can you drill the bars at the bottom where they connect to the riser then run them down the riser and drill as close to the tree from the riser? Dia I think should be about 3/8 or slightly smaller..
Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,661
Likes: 0
From: East Northport, NY
Pull the pins. You'll save yourself a lot of work, just make absolutely sure you put everything back together the right way, or else you'll do what I did. You try to start the bike and it'll lurch forward for you flip the run switch.
Have plenty of Windex or wd40 on hand. It will help running the wires. I preferred Windex. Easier to cleanup.
Are the new bars prestrung? If not, I used 8lbs fishing line and a vacuum cleaner. Tape off 2 holes, tie a small piece of paper to the fishing line and put the vacuum on the other end... works great...
Have plenty of Windex or wd40 on hand. It will help running the wires. I preferred Windex. Easier to cleanup.
Are the new bars prestrung? If not, I used 8lbs fishing line and a vacuum cleaner. Tape off 2 holes, tie a small piece of paper to the fishing line and put the vacuum on the other end... works great...
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 454
Likes: 0
From: West Metro, Minnesota
For a cleaner look and not to add to the bulkness of the wires remove each pin from the connector..
Can you drill the bars at the bottom where they connect to the riser then run them down the riser and drill as close to the tree from the riser? Dia I think should be about 3/8 or slightly smaller..
Can you drill the bars at the bottom where they connect to the riser then run them down the riser and drill as close to the tree from the riser? Dia I think should be about 3/8 or slightly smaller..
From what I see, I could even, depending on where the wires drop from the switch block, drill the bars AND be able to shorten my 32" bars an inch or so on either side... Basically being able to remove the length needed for the wiring to run inside the brake and clutch clamps... Did that come out right?
From what I've seen on other bikes, I could either run the wiring down to bars and to ONE centered exit location, or two exit locations close to each risers... I'm just wondering which of these options would be the most "stealth" and cosmetically pleasing...
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 454
Likes: 0
From: West Metro, Minnesota
Pull the pins. You'll save yourself a lot of work, just make absolutely sure you put everything back together the right way, or else you'll do what I did. You try to start the bike and it'll lurch forward for you flip the run switch.
Have plenty of Windex or wd40 on hand. It will help running the wires. I preferred Windex. Easier to cleanup.
Are the new bars prestrung? If not, I used 8lbs fishing line and a vacuum cleaner. Tape off 2 holes, tie a small piece of paper to the fishing line and put the vacuum on the other end... works great...
Have plenty of Windex or wd40 on hand. It will help running the wires. I preferred Windex. Easier to cleanup.
Are the new bars prestrung? If not, I used 8lbs fishing line and a vacuum cleaner. Tape off 2 holes, tie a small piece of paper to the fishing line and put the vacuum on the other end... works great...
And very good point on the pins!! I'll make a little "pin out" diagram for the connectors... Thanks for the reminder!!
These are not new bars and are not drilled or prestrung. However they are dimpled...
For penetrating the bars... Should I just go for it with the drill? Or... go the air route and "grind" the holes through with a die grinder or something?
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 421
Likes: 2
From: United Socialist Republic of Massachusetts
In my mind "pulling the pins" is the only way to do it.
If I had to extend the wires I'd put new pins on the end of the extended wires and only have one splice.
as for cosmetics dig through some of "the dirt cheap mods" threads one of the guys used some chrome wire wrap.
As for drilling the dimples make sure you de-burr the holes, Sears has a hand held deburing tool that real nice for getting the inside of the hole($12).
If I had to extend the wires I'd put new pins on the end of the extended wires and only have one splice.
as for cosmetics dig through some of "the dirt cheap mods" threads one of the guys used some chrome wire wrap.
As for drilling the dimples make sure you de-burr the holes, Sears has a hand held deburing tool that real nice for getting the inside of the hole($12).
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Tourer
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 341
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From: Ft Leonard Wood
Windex or anything like that will help tremendously. I actually used the Baby Oil that my OL and I left in the garage...dont ask...lol.
After I stripped the coating around the wires I slipped heat shrink over them and made them much smaller and kept the wires from having a single one bunch up....worked awesome. If I had to do it again I would stay with the heat shrink.
After I stripped the coating around the wires I slipped heat shrink over them and made them much smaller and kept the wires from having a single one bunch up....worked awesome. If I had to do it again I would stay with the heat shrink.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2005
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From: Georgia
Pull the pins from the connector you have the other end to match the wires to.It's best to have a manual there and learn what the wires are to you're pulling apart.Some bikes you can get away without pulling the tank but for what little effort it is to pull you'll be better off with the room afforded with the tank off.
A vacuum and some string will get you a snake.Fishing line has a tendency to cut wires that might give you a short once everything is back together.Found that out the hard way. As far as a lubricant we use non chlorinated brake cleaner.Dries fast without the mess of oils and is unbelievably slick when wet.I've used all of the above and prefer the brake cleaner.Make sure you cover your frt fender,not just for the cleaner but that wrench that you always seem to lose control of. I used to dread wiring but after a couple of tries it's not a bad job.
If you need to extend the wires you can cut,solder,heat shrink or go the fabricated,color coded route plug and play stuff from J+P for 20 bucks or so depending on the length..If you do cut and splice stagger your splices,it will give you a much cleaner and thinner wire harness.Deutz crimpers that work are in the 350.00 range if you choose to put new ends on..Good luck.G.
A vacuum and some string will get you a snake.Fishing line has a tendency to cut wires that might give you a short once everything is back together.Found that out the hard way. As far as a lubricant we use non chlorinated brake cleaner.Dries fast without the mess of oils and is unbelievably slick when wet.I've used all of the above and prefer the brake cleaner.Make sure you cover your frt fender,not just for the cleaner but that wrench that you always seem to lose control of. I used to dread wiring but after a couple of tries it's not a bad job.
If you need to extend the wires you can cut,solder,heat shrink or go the fabricated,color coded route plug and play stuff from J+P for 20 bucks or so depending on the length..If you do cut and splice stagger your splices,it will give you a much cleaner and thinner wire harness.Deutz crimpers that work are in the 350.00 range if you choose to put new ends on..Good luck.G.
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