Bleeding brakes on Fat Boy
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,357
Likes: 11
From: The Lone Star State
I just bled mine with my mityvac and it took about 15 minutes. I also always remove the bleeder screw and wrap the threads with teflon tape as mentioned above. I didn't do this before and although I used the mity vac, I was getting air in aroud the bleeder screw so I was getting no where. After rewrapping the threads, I was good to go.
Club Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 145,895
Likes: 821
From: 40 miles Northeast of Indy..
I just got the speed bleeders, but haven't tried them yet.. like said above lots of members use then with success for just flushing the lines.
I've read that on new brake lines install U need to fill them with fluid first before putting them on Ur bike, if not, most say its harder to get them bleed right.
.
I've read that on new brake lines install U need to fill them with fluid first before putting them on Ur bike, if not, most say its harder to get them bleed right.
.
I just replaced the front caliper on my bike and this is a PITA! I ran about 5 master cylinders through it until it finally got tight. Then I took it for a ride to heat it up, then bleed it again. It's perfect now but took at least 2hrs and then a heat session, then one more bleed and it's good.
Make sure the bleeder screw is on top, and make sure you keep something between the pads while bleeding. Also, press the lever slowly, then hold and bleed. Pumping fast can add air if it sloshes.
Also, I put a towel down over my tank and front fender. I'm using DOT 4.
Make sure the bleeder screw is on top, and make sure you keep something between the pads while bleeding. Also, press the lever slowly, then hold and bleed. Pumping fast can add air if it sloshes.
Also, I put a towel down over my tank and front fender. I'm using DOT 4.
Stage IV
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Norfolk, Va
Didn't end up bleeding the brakes, because I got scared.
I had to replace the Rear Brake Switch and used a method that someone put in the Sportster section of pulling the old one and replacing with new.
My issue was I went down and got the DOT 5 from Harley and noticed for some reason it's purple and the stuff in the line is light amber. Had a little self doubt as to whats been used in the bike before, even though all the labels on the bike say DOT 5. Bought it with 21k miles on it and you never know what someone had on hand and decided was ok.
I had to replace the Rear Brake Switch and used a method that someone put in the Sportster section of pulling the old one and replacing with new.
My issue was I went down and got the DOT 5 from Harley and noticed for some reason it's purple and the stuff in the line is light amber. Had a little self doubt as to whats been used in the bike before, even though all the labels on the bike say DOT 5. Bought it with 21k miles on it and you never know what someone had on hand and decided was ok.
Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
From: crawford co. WI
A trick that I found on here is to turn the bars or even loosen the master cylinder or bars if you need to so the air bubbles can rise to the resovoir, then pull the brake lever in as far as you can and tie it there and leave it overnight. This only works to get the last bit out and firm up the lever.
Didn't end up bleeding the brakes, because I got scared.
I had to replace the Rear Brake Switch and used a method that someone put in the Sportster section of pulling the old one and replacing with new.
My issue was I went down and got the DOT 5 from Harley and noticed for some reason it's purple and the stuff in the line is light amber. Had a little self doubt as to whats been used in the bike before, even though all the labels on the bike say DOT 5. Bought it with 21k miles on it and you never know what someone had on hand and decided was ok.
I had to replace the Rear Brake Switch and used a method that someone put in the Sportster section of pulling the old one and replacing with new.
My issue was I went down and got the DOT 5 from Harley and noticed for some reason it's purple and the stuff in the line is light amber. Had a little self doubt as to whats been used in the bike before, even though all the labels on the bike say DOT 5. Bought it with 21k miles on it and you never know what someone had on hand and decided was ok.
You can always flush the system completely (you can't mix the fluids) and then fill it with the recommended DOT 5. Bleeding is easy, but time consuming. The front is at least. The rear took me less than 5 minutes start to finish. The front took me 2 days, and half a bottle of large fluid. Not looking forward to doing it again, but I'm replacing my lines and I'll get to live that nightmare again.
Last edited by NoRegerts; Jul 9, 2012 at 11:44 AM.
5th Gear
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Dubai
Front bleeding
Just replaced my front brake line and had to bleed after. Went fairly well! thanks for the tips.
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Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: New York City
Reverse bleeding makes the most sense, pushing air bubbles up instead of forcing them downward. I've tried both conventional and Mity-Vac, and reverse bleeding was easiest for me. I use a large medical syringe with clear tubing attached to force the fluid out to the master cylinder. Zip tie the tube to the bleeder and syringe tip for a more secure fit.
I use one similar to this
I use one similar to this
