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Nope, the instructions specifically said for the V&H 2 n 2 that they needed to go deeper. I took a tip from a forum user and made a "pulley" type install thingy.
Holes drilled at 6"
Routed the string and tied a washer on the end to pull it to the right location
Inserted a small screw driver to hold the baffle in place and then removed
FatBob, I did run the stock V&H baffles for about 2 weeks. The BCT baffles have that deeper lovelier sound IMHO.
I thought about doing mine like that with the pipes still on the bike but I was worried about the screw heads hitting the heat shields and maybe rattling or something. Did you have any problems with that or did you just leave the heat shields off? It would be a much easier fix.
Did you have any problems with that or did you just leave the heat shields off? It would be a much easier fix.
Heat shields went on just fine w/ red Loctite on the fasteners, no problem.
One thing I found out about these baffles (in the instructions) is that they are reversible. If you put the "bulls eye" the opposite way (toward the motor) , it will change the torque range to mid to high end. I haven't tried it yet. I like the low end to mid it currently has.
Last edited by t03cutt3r; Jun 14, 2013 at 08:59 AM.
I would like to thank Sgt Jim for his post many moons ago about using the old oil filter as the puck for the scavenger process. I finally did it this week. It went without a hitch. In some thread someone pointed out that Sears sells a AC/Fuel line quick disconnect kit to be used to remove the oil return line. It was $8 and worked great.
Found an old Drain Cleaner container to measure the output.
This is why this thread and forum is so great. Total cost $13.
I would like to thank Sgt Jim for his post many moons ago about using the old oil filter as the puck for the scavenger process. I finally did it this week. It went without a hitch. In some thread someone pointed out that Sears sells a AC/Fuel line quick disconnect kit to be used to remove the oil return line. It was $8 and worked great.
Found an old Drain Cleaner container to measure the output.
This is why this thread and forum is so great. Total cost $13.
Can you do a write up of what it is you are showing us and how you did the procedure if possible?
Thanks
I would like to thank Sgt Jim for his post many moons ago about using the old oil filter as the puck for the scavenger process. I finally did it this week. It went without a hitch. In some thread someone pointed out that Sears sells a AC/Fuel line quick disconnect kit to be used to remove the oil return line. It was $8 and worked great.
Found an old Drain Cleaner container to measure the output.
This is why this thread and forum is so great. Total cost $13.
Right on man, glad it went well for you.
In lighter news, it has rained on every available day I've had to ride. Bike is sitting peacefully in her new home (my new garage), but the peacefulness needs to stop. darn it.
Heat shields went on just fine w/ red Loctite on the fasteners, no problem.
One thing I found out about these baffles (in the instructions) is that they are reversible. If you put the "bulls eye" the opposite way (toward the motor) , it will change the torque range to mid to high end. I haven't tried it yet. I like the low end to mid it currently has.
Cool. Good to know. I'll give it a try tomorrow then. I'm like you I'd rather have the torque lower in the power band. I don't normally rev much over 3500 rpm so I wouldn't use the extra torque in the high end. I've got a couple of other things to install as well. I picked up harley's saddlebag power outlet and the turn signal extensions. Nothing particularly sexy about either item I know but I'm pretty sure the outlet will come in handy and I'll like not having to stretch my thumbs so much to hit the turn signals. Not to mention they were cheap
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