Bones indicator relocation hints
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 231
Likes: 1
From: Milton Keynes, UK
Bones indicator relocation hints
Well that was a bit of a job, but glad I had a go myself.
I know most will go the Dremmel / grind bit of the sissy bar bracket route but I thought I would share a little bit of experience if it helps others
First problem was I wasn't able to unclip the indicator wire terminals from the rear light, no I didn't have a pick tool, but a very thin screwdriver still didn't work so I snipped the wires in the rear light housing rather than underneath the fender. If anyone has info on how to unclip these properly please share! I also found that when coming to joining the wires together I was a little short, so had to do a bit more splicing; but this probably because of where I cut the wires. There isn't much / any slack from the factory
Also I had to strip the outer insulation that bundles the indicator wire together for it to fit through the stalk, couldn't see how it would squeeze in otherwise
Apart from that not too bad, even the T45 torx bolts holding the fender came out fine, I used a Mac socket on a long torque wrench which made it very easy.
The 'Doh'! moment came when everything screwed together and was about to move the fender back into place and bolt up, there is a misleading picture in the instructions re how the nut holding the stalk is orientated, though the description is correct. First picture is right way, second picture is wrong! I'm sure someone else has mentioned this ...
The relocation kit is nicely made, all black and finish withstood tools very well. All in all took me two hours and three cups of tea in blazing sun, if I had to do it again half hour job tops.
I know most will go the Dremmel / grind bit of the sissy bar bracket route but I thought I would share a little bit of experience if it helps others
First problem was I wasn't able to unclip the indicator wire terminals from the rear light, no I didn't have a pick tool, but a very thin screwdriver still didn't work so I snipped the wires in the rear light housing rather than underneath the fender. If anyone has info on how to unclip these properly please share! I also found that when coming to joining the wires together I was a little short, so had to do a bit more splicing; but this probably because of where I cut the wires. There isn't much / any slack from the factory
Also I had to strip the outer insulation that bundles the indicator wire together for it to fit through the stalk, couldn't see how it would squeeze in otherwise
Apart from that not too bad, even the T45 torx bolts holding the fender came out fine, I used a Mac socket on a long torque wrench which made it very easy.
The 'Doh'! moment came when everything screwed together and was about to move the fender back into place and bolt up, there is a misleading picture in the instructions re how the nut holding the stalk is orientated, though the description is correct. First picture is right way, second picture is wrong! I'm sure someone else has mentioned this ...
The relocation kit is nicely made, all black and finish withstood tools very well. All in all took me two hours and three cups of tea in blazing sun, if I had to do it again half hour job tops.
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: Fort McMurray Canada
Glad you took the time to do the work yourself. Its very rewarding when your finished and not to mention you save a few bones. I had the same problem with the wires as you did. A little persistence and extra wire and she was finished. Side note..... I wish I did not buy the relocation kit as I found it no good when I added my Easy Brackets and saddle bags. The saddle bags hit the turn signals. What I ended up doing was relocating the turn signals to the side of the licence plate plastic bracket. I don't have a good pic but hop it shows. I can get you a better one if you wanted. Have fun and ride safe
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 231
Likes: 1
From: Milton Keynes, UK
Thanks for the info Derek, yeah can work it out from the picture ... sorry you had to move em twice bet those signals are like old friends now..
I'm putting the Bones leather bags on mine (guess I wont win any originality awards) and they staying there so hopefully wont be an issue. Would love the stripped down badass look but I need practicality and company too so bags / fenders / seats a necessity
I did fit PM grips and they are fantastic ... believe the hype. And as a token custom statement got one of the ludicrously expensive RSD gas gaps .. likely to be the only RSD bit I can afford in the UK
Will post how I get on
I'm putting the Bones leather bags on mine (guess I wont win any originality awards) and they staying there so hopefully wont be an issue. Would love the stripped down badass look but I need practicality and company too so bags / fenders / seats a necessity
I did fit PM grips and they are fantastic ... believe the hype. And as a token custom statement got one of the ludicrously expensive RSD gas gaps .. likely to be the only RSD bit I can afford in the UK
Will post how I get on
2nd Gear
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: London
Hi
I have an XL883N 2013 Iron (black matte), and apparently the relocation kits out there available (in UK) are all the same, a chromed bar to stick behind he license plate.
and they all cost ~50 to ~90 sterlings.
I was then wishing to find a DIY solution to save those Ł50-90:
could you quickly describe how did you fix the your rear signals on your plate.
Thanks a lot
Marco
I have an XL883N 2013 Iron (black matte), and apparently the relocation kits out there available (in UK) are all the same, a chromed bar to stick behind he license plate.
and they all cost ~50 to ~90 sterlings.
I was then wishing to find a DIY solution to save those Ł50-90:
could you quickly describe how did you fix the your rear signals on your plate.
Thanks a lot
Marco
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