When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
ok, did a brake fluid, rotor and pad change of this weekend. Heritage classic 2009
Basically, took the caliper off, removed the pads, drained all of the old brake fluid, took the wheel off, exchanged the rotor, put everything back on.
I put new Lendell pads in. When I reinstalled the caliper the front wheel turned nicely without the pads touching.
Then i proceeded to bleed the brakes. Put new fluid in, with the help of a friend he pumped and blead until all the air was out and we only got clear looking fluid.
Since then the pads are dragging along the rotor. The wheel will not free spin when the bike is jacked up. The brakes stop the bike fine, the only thing is after a few brakes and they are and the rotor are warm I can heat it everytime I hit the brake. It sounds like a cicada (speeling?). I have also noticed that the rotor is really hot even after a short ride up and down the street. alot warmer than the rear brake. (my guess that is from the rubbing/draging)
my question is this normal at the beginning after changing rotor and pads? is this part of the wear-in? Or is something wrong?
I notice no shaking or wobble at all from the front wheel, so no issues there. Also not squeeking from the brakes.
You said the wheel will not turn freely when on a jack...try that again...if it will not turn freely, open the bleeder screw...it it turns freely after opening the screw,the master cylinder has problems...if not it is the caliper.
Did you "top off" the master cylinder after bleeding? I've seen people put enough fluid in to leave the piston no where to go. This can lead quickly to warped rotors. Remove the cap from the MC. If it's right up to the top take some out or cover things well with a towel. Remove the caliper(s). Spread the pads using whatever you used the first time (I have a couple of pieces of Home Depot paint stirrer that I spread with a big screwdriver.) Remount the calipers. Check the fluid level before you pump the lever. Put everything together and pump the lever several times. That should take care of it.
You said the wheel will not turn freely when on a jack...try that again...if it will not turn freely, open the bleeder screw...it it turns freely after opening the screw,the master cylinder has problems...if not it is the caliper.
+1 . . . Good Advice / First Step . . . it sounds like your Master Cylinder Piston can not retract all the way. When this happens fluid pumped into the hydraulic circuit when you apply the brakes can't return to the reservoir when you release the lever and the brakes remain applied even after you release the lever.
However if the brakes were dragging before you bled the brakes then the problem is mechanical at the Caliper.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.