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That statement tells me there's nothing wrong with the starter.
If it cranks by jump starting it then the problem is something electrical on the bike.
It's either the battery, a bad connection or something is wrong with the charging system and it's not putting out enough power to recharge the battery but enough so the bike will run.
well, i agree, that seems to make sense to me too! after jump starting it twice, i figured i have a bad (brand new) battery. but it tested: fully charged and plenty of cranking amps??? is a load test something different completely? i really don't want to pull the starter and start throwing parts at this thing. thanks everyone, Rick
Same here if it's trying to crank I would think the starter has no problems? Rick did you check all your starter bolt to make sure they are tight cause I heard in RG's that the starter bolts complete the ground? If I were you I'd borrow a buddies battery and try it and if it works the battery guys lied to you... simple and easy unless you got no friends around?
You say when they tested your battery, it showed some "400 amps" of cranking power. In order to test for current, the battery has to be under a load. Current will only flow when there is a load. However, if the gadget they are using to test for current is using a high impedance (resistance) load, then it's possible the battery looks strong. But the load from a starter is very low impedance. It's possible that a battery will test good on a high impedance tester but weak on a low impedance tester. You'd think Interstate would have an appropriate tester, but you never know. I think until you put a known to be good battery on the bike, you can not eliminate the possibility the battery is weak and is your problem.
The fact that it is at 12.4v tells me that the battery is not fully charged as it should be at 12.8v when fully charged. I'm with most of the others with the idea of trying a different battery cause if it starts normally with a jump that pretty much proves out the rest of the system.
The fact that it is at 12.4v tells me that the battery is not fully charged as it should be at 12.8v when fully charged. I'm with most of the others with the idea of trying a different battery cause if it starts normally with a jump that pretty much proves out the rest of the system.
At 120/208, 120/240, 230/415, 240/480, 277/480, 7.2/14.4kv, etc. 1 volt won't matter.
On a 12 volt scale 1 volt is a lot..........
Even 1/2 volt could make a difference.
Last edited by silvrbill; Jul 21, 2010 at 05:37 PM.
A load test will pull power on the battery..they hook it up, they flip a switch and hold it for a certian amount of time and watch to see if the battery holds, or drops like a rock..it simulates what the starter will do to the battery while cranking.
If your bike goes down, a gel battery is safer and won't remove your paint for the places that you don't scrape it off of.
The person that tests your battery has to set the tester for a wet or gel type battery before testing.
If your starter is just beginning to drag (bad bearing or bushing, for example, that ***** the armature in the housing) then jump starting may overcome that. It is not necessarily the case that the battery or wiring is bad, but makes it more likely. I would not suggest, however, that you make ANY assumptions when it comes to electrical problems on a Harley. I have come to feel that the guys that used to do Lucas electrical systems have gone to work for Harley.
well, i bought a new gel battery today, and installed it tonight. the bike started RIGHT up.........i am guarded, as the interstate acid filled battery worked at first, and worked "off and on" later. but at this point, i feel like the battery was the problem, and i also feel like the acid filled interstate batteries are not capable of replacing the original battery on a 96 cubic in harley. time will tell i guess. thanks for all the replies, and i will let you know. Rick
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