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I am going to BUMP this thread. I am doing the same thing right now. I need to know if my shocks are adjusted evenly. Do they stop turning when you get them all the way one way or the other? I thought maybe I could use a straight line to put across the flat end and line them up but I can't seem to get one of them back as far as the other. And the F#&^ING wrench does not have a great handle on it to start with. And adjusting them on the jiffy stand is almost impossible because the wrench won't fit between the shock and the ground. HELP guys,all I did was knock myself in the forehead and cut the crap out of myself. Come on you techs,where are you at??????
Lift the bike up so the rear tire is off the ground and strap it down.
Get a spanner wrench - HD part number 94448-82B
Loosen the jam nut- 1-1/16'' if I remember correctly
With a the spanner wrench turn the adjuster plate counter-clockwise so the shock housing moves towards the front of the bike until its up against the jam nut.
Take a light colored paint pen, or a piece of duct tape, or something and mark the 6 o'clock position on the adjuster plate to use as a reference point when doing your adjustment.
Now turn both adjuster plates - no more than 4 turns - the same amount clockwise and then tighten everything up and your shocks will be set the same.
Softer ride less turns - stiffer obviously more turns.You'll have to mess with this to get the settings right for your weight and depending on who and what you carry.
My 2005 SE Fat Boy came lowered in the rear about an 1". When I adjust my shocks, I never raise the rear tire off the ground. I do it on the jiffy stand.
When you look at the forward end, the more threads showing the softer the setting.
Back the retention nuts out of the way. Once you break the shocks loose with the spanner wrench turn them back until they bottom out. Then paint a white stripe, forward/aft on the bottom of each shock.
Now you can start adjusting and know they are both at the same setting.
You can count how many turns as you adjust them. If you decide to go all the way to the softest or firmest setting, turn them back just a bit so they are not jammed one way or another. This will make it easier to break them loose next time you adjust them, also just barely snug the retention nuts. The retention nuts have never come loose on me, between adjustments. I haven't figured why HD uses loctite on them, since they are something you are suppose to adjust.
Tom
Thanks Oliver and Tmitchell.those are both good ways to adjust the shocks. I am having a big problem with the left side shock. I can't hardly get that SOB to move. I was going to bottom them out and go from there but when I turn it the shaft and everything moves,and as far as doing it on the jiffy stand,the bike leans to the left so far that the wrench won't fit between the shock and the ground.
Thanks Oliver and Tmitchell.those are both good ways to adjust the shocks. I am having a big problem with the left side shock. I can't hardly get that SOB to move. I was going to bottom them out and go from there but when I turn it the shaft and everything moves,and as far as doing it on the jiffy stand,the bike leans to the left so far that the wrench won't fit between the shock and the ground.
I cut the handle of the wrench down. My SE Fat Boy is an 1" lower in the rear then a regular Fat Boy, so my clearance to the ground is less. When I adjust the shocks the shock body turns.
Well I understood the whole cannister turning,but the shaft where it goes through the cross member,was turning. I finally found out that the end of the shaft is squared off so you can hold the shaft with a 7/16" wrench.
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