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Changing Riser Bushings-Fatboy 2004

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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 11:33 AM
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Default Changing Riser Bushings-Fatboy 2004

I'm going to be changing to the poly riser bushings. To make it easier to get to the riser bolts it looks like I really need to take off the metal shield(don't know what to call it other than a shield) that finishes off the top of the forks on the Fatboy. So, asking for some help on how difficult it is to take that off. I know I could just start unscrewing things and see how far I get but really would like a word of advice. Or, do you think it is possible to make the change with only what little access you have on the backside of the shield. Any special technigues? Does anyone think that maybe it could be done with a socket wrench with a long extension so as to get the wrench down where there is some operating room?

I know I need to get a service manual and I will do that so I will know how to do these things in the future.

Appreciate any help. I
 
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 12:26 PM
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I'll be doing mine this weekend. I'm taking my fork cover off so I can get good access to the riser bolt. I've never had mine off before but it's just a matter of taking some torx screws out.
The exploded view in my parts manual shows that the back L shaped panel comes off separately so I'll start with that and go from there.
 

Last edited by jimmers1817; Oct 26, 2010 at 12:30 PM.
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 01:07 PM
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had my fork tins off to do some wiring for passing lamps, turn signals..
really not much of a big deal.
shouldn't have to take off the front, just the back part
 
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 01:19 PM
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When I swapped my bars, I used a 12" extension and got to the riser bolts from underneath without removing the tin, but mine's a 2010, I don't know if the older models are different.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by TCannon22
had my fork tins off to do some wiring for passing lamps, turn signals..
really not much of a big deal.
shouldn't have to take off the front, just the back part
Thanks so much for the info. So all you have to do is unscrew the torx nuts on the back of the covers and that back section will come off? The sides of the back section looked to me like they were somehow locked in, or integrated, with the front cover. I'll give it a shot tonight.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Earl IV
When I swapped my bars, I used a 12" extension and got to the riser bolts from underneath without removing the tin, but mine's a 2010, I don't know if the older models are different.
I'm just guessing but I think they are about the same as to the fork covers.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ajay450
Thanks so much for the info. So all you have to do is unscrew the torx nuts on the back of the covers and that back section will come off? The sides of the back section looked to me like they were somehow locked in, or integrated, with the front cover. I'll give it a shot tonight.
You'll have to take the bolts out of the side as well
The front and back are separate, but the overlap at the sides.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 06:10 PM
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There is no need to take off the fork tins to remove the riser bolts. It would make it a bit easier to get to, but not necessary at all. I have swapped bars without taking off the tins several times. Use a long socket or an extension if necessary.

Drew
 
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 08:33 PM
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I finished changing to the poly just a few minutes ago and did it without taking the tins off. A little frustrating but not bad. The result is that the bars are still off. The right hand (throttle) grip is behind the left grip. This is really irritating.

I think there are risers that leave a little play in the bolt so that you can make an adjustment. There's an aftermarket supplier called Scootworks and they advertised these type of risers. Anyone ever tried these?
 
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 08:56 PM
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Have you been drinking?
 
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