Where to get a 70 Tooth Pulley?
Roger
The 2007 model was the first with the 6 speed, and the MoCo went with the 66 tooth rear which results in a final drive ratio of 2.79 IIRC. This is just too low in the opinion of many, including myself... that is why many complain about not being able to get it into 6th gear. Going with either the 30t front, 49t clutch gear, or 70t rear pulley all give you right around 2.97 final drive, and really wake up the lower gears.
Some are doing the 30t front/68t rear (~3.15 final drive) or 30t/70t (~3.30 final), but that would be far too tall. The 30/68 allows the changes without changing belts, as you're taking two teeth off the front and adding them to the rear, but it is more expensive and, for me, I appear to have enough adjustment to do just the rear.
I've done cams, and they certainly helped. My concern isn't the upper range though, as I'm looking to improve the torque off the line. I figure I have way more on the top than I'll ever need or use, so I plan to shift some of the range down to the lower gears. I know that it currently has a theoretical max somewhere around 165 as measured at redline on a dyno without any load (hence theoretical), and I just don't figure to spend much time over 100.
This will give me a bit more usable power in the ranges I spend most of my time.
Roger
I had found a 70t/20mm Ness pulley on eBay for a great price (less than half) from a seller who coincidentally is very close by. I asked if they do will-call, which they don't, but they agreed since I was so close they'd overnight it. I should get it tomorrow and will get to see whether I can run it as is, or whether I'll need to do something else in addition... if I'm close but not quite there, I may also throw on the Andrews 31t trans pulley.
Best thing is that I will be able to break in the Direct-Lift table that I got yesterday!
Roger
The pulley will require a spacer, however, as the original appears to be about 3/8" wider in the hub area. I've talked to one of the tech guys at Ness and he is talking with his engineer to see what they can do for me. I'm hoping they can come up with a solution that I can pick up this afternoon, so I can get it back together tonight.
Roger
If you need a 3/8" spacer I got mine thru Dennis Kirk for my DNA pulley. Needed the same.
Non chromed. Around 10 bucks I think.
Last edited by lionsqrne; Jan 21, 2011 at 12:44 PM.
Roger
The pulley fit with my existing belt, I have plenty of adjustment front and rear on the axle, and it improved the torque without giving up much, if anything, on the top end. RPMs were shifted less than 200 to the right, so running along at 90 I was still only turning just over 3,000 rpms and had plenty left. As a side benefit, I can now run at lower r's in the higher gears without lugging, and it has plenty of torque to just roll on rather than downshifting, even on moderate grades.
It definitely gave me the added torque and pep I was looking for, without giving up anything related to usable performance.
I will have to figure out how to modify my belt guards, find replacements that fit, or run without. Not a big deal, and well worth the trade-off as far as I'm concerned, but as stated in another thread I don't want to be writing the next "something stuck in my ??? for $800" post!
So, here's what I ended up with:
Arlen Ness Sweeper pulley, part # 16-926, 70 tooth 20mm 2006 FXST (shown with original 66 tooth pulley):

Pulley spacer 16-896, purchased from Arlen Ness' technical specialist - I believe he said it was 0.375 (about 3/8"):

Chromed allen mount bolts and washers:

Here's an edge-wise photo of the two pulleys:

Here's how much adjustment I have with the new pulley and the original belt, which is almost 3/8" in the front now:

Here's what the pulley looked like before I had a chance to clean anything up:

It has been a very interesting quest, but it is good to know this one finally has a happy ending. For anyone else considering this mod, here are the major points to consider:
- You need to be sure to have sufficient forward axle adjustment if you intend to use your original belt; in order to go 4 teeth as I did, you will need nearly 3/4". If your adjustment room is towards the rear instead of the front, consider replacing the transmission pulley (Andrews 30t or 31t depending on how much you want to change - 1 tooth in front is equal to 2 1/2 teeth in the rear). Alternatively, if money isn't a major consideration you can change the front (1 tooth smaller) and rear (two teeth larger) to accomplish the same gear change without requiring any significant axle adjustment.
- You need to carefully consider whether to change the front pulley (likely cheapest solution, requires opening the outer and inner primary cases, should work with nearly all stock belts unless you have no additional rear adjustment), rear pulley (detailed above), or the clutch gear (46 - 49 tooth for similar fitments, same gear ratio adjustment, more only remove outer primary case, challenging install as you need to drill existing rivets and countersink replacement bolts, and is very expensive as offered from Evo Industries). There are quite a few factors to consider before arriving at your solution. Also, there are other combinations should you prefer different gear ratios... this was ideal for what I wanted to achieve, but if you want something extremely quick you will likely want to consider more drastic changes.
- Also, check your model's specific current gearing, as the MoCo made changes starting in '09 to address part of this shortcoming, and many of the earlier models had completely different gearing altogether.
Roger
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