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What's the tightening torque, if published somewhere that I can't find, for these standoff bolts?
2003 88TC stock carb. Screaming Eagle cleaner.
I'm planning on installing a catch can, and if I have to take these out to remove the plate (T30) to get to the breather bolts, I want to know I can likely reinstall them properly. I *think* I can get it done w/o having to take it completely off (I believe I can snake the tubes out). I need to seal off the holes they left. Best practice? A bolt or screw from the outside?
If I may, I would suggest next time start a new thread rather than resurrecting a 13 year old thread. There will be less reading required for someone to reach your actual question...
The back plate is easy to take off. If you pull up the install instructions I mentioned below, you'll see what's involved and how easy it is...
To answer your first question:
Those standoff bolts are refereed to as "air cleaner mounting studs". It's covered in #8 below.
From the "SCREAMIN' EAGLE TWIN CAM AIR CLEANER BACKPLATE" Instructions / dated 12/20/2005 / #J03826:
See Figure 1. Obtain the new air cleaner backplate (1), the backplate gasket (2), two "O"-rings (4), and blue Loctite 243 (9) from the kit, and the breather screws (C) removed in Step 2.
Install the new "O"-rings in the grooves around the breather screw holes on the carburetor or induction module side of the backplate.
Align the flat edge of the gasket with the molded tab, and install on the carburetor or induction module side of the backplate.
Insert the breather screws through the backplate. Apply a small amount of Loctite to the breather screw threads and the mating tapped holes in the cylinder head; then thread the screws into the cylinder head. DO NOT tighten completely at this time.
Obtain the three air cleaner mounting studs (6) from the kit. Thread the studs all the way through the backplate and gasket until the screw threads are captured in the carburetor. DO NOT tighten completely at this time.
Alternately tighten the two breather screws to 120-144 in-lbs (13.6-16.3 Nm).
Press the breather plugs (3) into the breather screw cavities, aligning the tubes with the recesses in the backplate.
Tighten the three air cleaner mounting studs to 55-60 in-lbs (6.2-6.8 Nm).
Last edited by hattitude; Jan 2, 2024 at 08:42 PM.
Not to knock Mr. H in any manner. His recommendations are always solid!
Just to give you an option on part of what you are doing and trying to accomplish.
For the two port holes the rubber breather tubes go through on the backing plate. I tapped the two holes and installed bolts from the rear. Cut them off flush to the face and filed smooth, Then - Removed and reinstalled both with heavy Loctite. As for the vent tubes. I Ran each cylinder's rubber vent tube to a "T", and then the one single rubber vent line up to the main cross frame member, and then towards the back and down to the swingarm area. The height gives any oil vapors that form a chance to go back into the valve cover. I have not had any oil residue on the exit rubber tube.
I did the same type of setup on my Triumph.
Not to knock Mr. H in any manner. His recommendations are always solid!
Just to give you an option on part of what you are doing and trying to accomplish.
For the two port holes the rubber breather tubes go through on the backing plate. I tapped the two holes and installed bolts from the rear. Cut them off flush to the face and filed smooth, Then - Removed and reinstalled both with heavy Loctite. As for the vent tubes. I Ran each cylinder's rubber vent tube to a "T", and then the one single rubber vent line up to the main cross frame member, and then towards the back and down to the swingarm area. The height gives any oil vapors that form a chance to go back into the valve cover. I have not had any oil residue on the exit rubber tube.
I did the same type of setup on my Triumph.
OP, I just provided you with the torque spec and instructions for backplate installation/removal
The above recommendation on how to run your crank case vent is very similar to how I run mine....
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