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New bike probably won't need new lifters either, our wrench usually suggest's them if bike has over 15k.
didn't do mine, but though about it,, dealer had a winter special 2yrs ago, included, cams, lifters, oils changed and Labor, plus they threw in a free dyno tune when done... all for $875.
I've got a lift table and all the tools........ just grab the cams and the pushrods. Oh, and the tuner that you'll need......
I have a FuelPak installed.. nobody seems to care for them around here.. but it seems to do the job.. VH has maps for my mods if I do a cam swap... I got the FuelPak out of necessity and low price.. if I do the cams I will probably eventually do the PCV from FuelMoto
Well you just need the cams then. And an o-ring or 2. And pushrods if you want to save some hassle. It really is an easy job though, and easily done in just a little while.
Well you just need the cams then. And an o-ring or 2. And pushrods if you want to save some hassle. It really is an easy job though, and easily done in just a little while.
so, what's the deal on the pushrods?? why replace?? pros/cons
You may have to replace the pushrods, depending on the cam you choose. It's because of the base circle on the cam. If you can and want to keep your pushrods, you have to get into the rocker boxes and lift the gas tank out of the way. Some guys figure at that point, I may as well take off the heads, have them re-worked and install one of the big bore kits or new pistons with their cylinders bored out. Throw in a thinner head gasket as well to up the compression. If you go with adjustables, you cut off your pushrods with a bolt cutter and reinstall the adjustables without having mess with the top end or take off the gas tank.Regardless, you'll need new o-rings for the tubes and some o-rings in the cam chest, gasket for the cam cover.
What he said ^^^^.......
Cutting the old ones and using adjustables cuts the time in half. It also allows you to adjust potential 'tics' out. It also makes any future work in the cam chest a hell of a lot easier because you don't have to go back through the rockers. That's the pros. The only con, in my opinion, is it's another $150-ish. But I think it's well worth the $$ to avoid the hassle of going through the top.
You may have to replace the pushrods, depending on the cam you choose. It's because of the base circle on the cam. If you can and want to keep your pushrods, you have to get into the rocker boxes and lift the gas tank out of the way. Some guys figure at that point, I may as well take off the heads, have them re-worked and install one of the big bore kits or new pistons with their cylinders bored out. Throw in a thinner head gasket as well to up the compression. If you go with adjustables, you cut off your pushrods with a bolt cutter and reinstall the adjustables without having mess with the top end or take off the gas tank.Regardless, you'll need new o-rings for the tubes and some o-rings in the cam chest, gasket for the cam cover.
What he said ^^^^.......
Cutting the old ones and using adjustables cuts the time in half. It also allows you to adjust potential 'tics' out. It also makes any future work in the cam chest a hell of a lot easier because you don't have to go back through the rockers. That's the pros. The only con, in my opinion, is it's another $150-ish. But I think it's well worth the $$ to avoid the hassle of going through the top.
got it.. seems well worth it to replace them then..
I have always wondered about the weight of the adjustable push rods. I know that they must be heavier that the stockers, but by how much, and does it hurt performance or longevity any way.
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