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This looks great Tom, do you have any pictures showing the other side, as well as a link to where you got this set-up ?
This is not a conversion "kit". It is not a "bolt on". It requires welding and correct spacing of the "sprotor" My bike was already chain drive before I installed it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/51-TO...Q5fAccessories
This just isn't true with a modern o-ring chain. The only purpose of lube is to keep the rollers on the chain moving freely. O-ring chains have lube on the inside of the rollers and the o-rings keep it from getting out. I never lube my chain. I check the rollers once a year and if any are stiff I replace the chain. I usually get 3-5 years out of a chain depending on how much rain I get caught in. After the initial stretch of a new chain it needs very little adjustment. And I can change the chain in less than ten minutes...try that with a belt.
You nailed it bud! Nice job on the install!
Bottom line is yeah, belts will last longer but there is no comparison between adding or removing a link in a pinch and the cost of a chain vs. a belt! Todays chains are much stronger over years past and are great for stock applications and big motors. Just do your homework as to gear ratio's and prices and your set.
After breaking 3 belts over the years, I decided to go chain when i installed a
Duce wheel on my bike. the narrow belts don't hold up well to added HP.
I made my own chain setup. 1/2" offset
My bike runs stock, so no torque worries here. Besides that, I personally find the looks of a belt very satisfying. I didn't really expect to be alone on this, but I think belts look a lot better than chains. Not to mention that for normal applications, last a lot longer and have a smoother power transfer than chains.
I broke my stock belt doing a burnout. I took it back to harley and luckily they replaced it for free because of the warranty. But if they would not have I would have defiantly went with a chain to ensure it didnt happen again. Plus the price for a dealer to install a belt is crazy!
I have a question...does the brake actually work properly?
The reason I ask is because I was told that drive side brakes are not as effective and safe as a seperate disk and calipre.
I did mine when I widened my frame for a 200 tire. I was running a PM 4 piston caliper before...this is a DNA 4 piston caliper the "sprotor" is 1 inch smaller than the stock rotor. When I first put it on there it would not stop at all, and I thought I had screwed up putting it on there. The problem was how polished the rotor was...after a few hard stops it got better and after a couple of days it is about as good as the PM unit. PM makes one at three times the price...and most of the others are single or 2 piston calipers. I think it is very safe.
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