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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 06:38 PM
  #1  
roofgunner's Avatar
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Default Brake Bleeding

Today I made the "mistake" of changing the break fluid in my 07 softail heritage. The rear was a breeze. However the front won't pump up. I have tried the standard method, the reverse method, and now the tie-the-brake handle back and go to bed and tap the line and cylinder in the morning method. I have never had a problem like this before in any car or motorcyle or ATV. It will pump up but not like it did before I changed the fluid. So, if the last method doesn't fix it, I can only assume that the new brake fluid has destroyed the master cylinder. So my question is, is it typical for new fluid and the bleeding procedure to all the sudden ruin the master cylinder? The bike is just four years old. This is my first H-D so I have no reference points, and is it difficult to rebuild the master cylinder on this or should I just take it to the shop??? Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by roofgunner
Today I made the "mistake" of changing the break fluid in my 07 softail heritage. The rear was a breeze. However the front won't pump up. I have tried the standard method, the reverse method, and now the tie-the-brake handle back and go to bed and tap the line and cylinder in the morning method. I have never had a problem like this before in any car or motorcyle or ATV. It will pump up but not like it did before I changed the fluid. So, if the last method doesn't fix it, I can only assume that the new brake fluid has destroyed the master cylinder. So my question is, is it typical for new fluid and the bleeding procedure to all the sudden ruin the master cylinder? The bike is just four years old. This is my first H-D so I have no reference points, and is it difficult to rebuild the master cylinder on this or should I just take it to the shop??? Thanks in advance.
If your stumped and can afford it, take it to a shop. Least it will be over with and you can be riding again.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 08:09 PM
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First question, and sorry I have to ask, did you use the right fluid? If it calls for dot 3 and you used dot 4 or 5 then you might run into problems... I've had luck before with leaving the master cylinder cover off over night, not sure if you tried that one.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 09:32 PM
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I have changed a few front master cylinders and believe me when I tell you it takes several hundred (stopped counting after 350) pumps before you start feeling it.
Best advice I can give is get some speed bleeders, I used them on my last change and they cut the time in half.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 09:57 PM
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did u use dot 4 ???? or dot 5 ? dot 4 should be for ur 2007...same thing happen to me try this....... slip a line over the bleeder put the line in a cup open the bleeder up good and need keep pumping and adding fuild up top get all the air out.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 06:04 AM
  #6  
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I know this won't help your current problem, but when I want to change my brake fluid, I don't empty it. Instead, I use the bleeding procedure to slowly flush the old fluid out with new fluid. This way, you always have pressure.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 06:27 AM
  #7  
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I had to bleed mine 2001 Heritage on Saturday and not by choice. I was going to rebuild the front caliper and while doing it found that gold brake fluid was in the system. I bought new DOT 5 (as labeled on the master cylinder) for my use which is purple. After all was said and done, I rebuilt the master cylinder to ensure I got all gold colored fluid out. it took about 45 minutes for me to get a feel on the levers, and fluid to the calipers. I thought I did something wrong, but it took forever to build pressure and get fluid to the calipers... Be patient...
 

Last edited by sammer4u; Jul 7, 2011 at 06:28 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 06:40 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by magnum629c
.... slip a line over the bleeder put the line in a cup open the bleeder up good and need keep pumping and adding fuild up top get all the air out.
There have been several threads about this. I found this instruction posted by another forum member, and it's the easiest I've ever used.

Push a plastic tube (1/4" ID) on the caliper bleeder. Run it over the handle bars (front) or seat (rear) and into a bucket. Take the top off of the reservoir. Loosen the bleeder. Squeeze the lever and keep filling master cylinder. If there's air you'll see bubbles coming up the line over the handle bars. Eventually no more bubbles and it's done. Tighten the bleeder, remove the tube, close the master cylinder.
 

Last edited by PPBART; Jul 7, 2011 at 06:42 AM. Reason: more text
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 09:14 AM
  #9  
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Default Bleeding brake

I used Dot 4 per the manual. I got up this am. tapped the caliper and lines. I didn't see any air come out. However the lever is 95%. Then I did the tube on bleeder bleeding procedure and failed to get anymore air. So--here is the end result. I'm in a better mood. I was going to ride the ZX-11 to the H-D shop (110-120 miles) to get new pad and ask about speed bleeders. A fellow H-D rider/mech said new pads should put the lever at it's factory position( and they are borderline anyway) and I'm taking off for TX, AZ, CA, etc in a couple of weeks (just got back from Thunder in the Valley in Johnstown, PA.) So, now since it's raining the wife wants to go to Nebraska Furniture Mart because couches are on sale and "we can take the car" "and there's nothing else to do". So I figure that my brakes will end up costing about $400, and the $$ won't even be going into the bike. I guess I can use the H-D card and get some chrome points. such is life. Oh well, once I get on the road again all will be well. Thanks and ride safe.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 01:30 PM
  #10  
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Speed bleeders help. Mine were from Russell (google it). When I did mine after putting on apes, it took quite a while. At the end it kept not being right. Like you said, 95%. At that point I got a clean container and kept pumping fluid through then putting the fluid from the clean container back in the reservoir since the new fluid was all there was at that point. Every once in a while I'd get a few more air bubbles coming out. It ended up at 100% eventually.
 
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