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If we are thinking about the same thing (inside the primary) then yes. It will fit 2000 and newer from what I read. I have a step by step from Bike Works mag on the in stall, they put it on a 05 heritage. Seems easy enough. I have a 2001 fxst that I'm thinking of installing it on. Hope this helps.
ORIGINAL: chops
Isn't the HD model stair stepped, it will ratchet up but not release?
If it is, that is a poor design. If it is not, I digress.
Maybe I read the description wrong in a magazine I saw some time ago.
I though it said that the tensioner worked off oil pressure.
So I took that to mean it worked a little like a hydro lifter, no pressure, no tension.
Did I misunderstand something or not read far enough?
Because I don't remember anything about a ratcheting type setup.
Think I'll go look at my service manual and see what it says about it.
No, it's a mechanical ratchet. That's why it can over tighten. The M6 uses a constant pressure against the chain and allows movement from pressure. Just keeps slack out of the primary. There also is a Hydralic tensioner similar to how a lifter works, but I'm not real keen on the overal idea. I'll stick with M6.
I read on another board where a guy said the new mechanical ratchet HD type had his chain so tight you could play a tune on it. He took it off and replaced with HB 125.
I have and like the design/concept of the HB 125 Hydraulic, works as designed.
Well that blows that idea out of the water. Not sure what the hell I was thinking of.
Chops and sleepneagle are correct, but I'm not sure that its all that bad a design.
In the manual it clearly shows that the tensioner is made up of a a coil spring loaded rod with a step style latching or ratching mechanism.
Its completely fool proof, and virtually impossible to screw it up during installation.
Now that I know how it works I can appreciate why the manual says a test run is required to allow it to do the last bit of "fine tuning".
The spring is fitted to "pre-load" a toothed wedge under the shoe. This ensures that there is a constant or near constant level of chain tension while the toothed wedge prevents excessive slack.
The wedge rides on a rack like plate so if there isn't enough slack in the chain it can't jump over to the next tooth. Very clever design in that it uses the tooth size and height to regulate the amount of allowable chain slack. Bigger teeth, more slack, and vise versa.
Combine that with the amount of motion avalable to it and the fine steps of the ratcheting mechanism and it should be able to maintain a very even, but relativly even tension level over a long time frame.
I read on another board where a guy said the new mechanical ratchet HD type had his chain so tight you could play a tune on it. He took it off and replaced with HB 125.
I have and like the design/concept of the HB 125 Hydraulic, works as designed.
Guess the next "upgrade" will be to use bigger teeth on the ratchet.
Edit;
I'll bet its not nearly as tight as he thinks it is once its running and you start twisting the throttle.
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