Riser Bushings Replacement Problem
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Riser Bushings Replacement Problem
I'm trying to replace the bushings in the handlebars due to excessive play, but the locknut holding the fork stud to the riser (housing the bushings) is impossible to remove. A socket on the locknut just caused the whole stud to unscrew from the fork. After putting the riser in a vise, I've tried unsuccessfully to double-nut the fork end of the stud in order to remove the locknut from the handlebar end of the stud.
Why is the easiest stuff always the hardest? Anybody run into this problem?
Why is the easiest stuff always the hardest? Anybody run into this problem?
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Los Angeles, CA
All you need to remove are the riser bolts from underneath. a 3/4" socket and depending on your bike maybe on a short extension. You don;t need to remove the fork clamp bolts. maybe I am misunderstanding but are you saying that the riser bolts is stuck in the top triple tree? If so tap it out with a rubber mallet.
Drew
Drew
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No; I think you've got it right. The whole riser assembly is off the triple tree. There is indeed a 3/4 nut that's part of the stud, but the only problem is that there's not enough clearance between the inside diameter of the riser and the 3/4 nut on the stud in order to get the wall of a socket in there. So a socket won't work. That's why I've tried the double-nut method on the threads of the stud itself since I can't get ahold of the 3/4 nut that's part of the stud.
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Sorry; I'm obviously not making myself clear. It is a stock fork stud that's threaded on the bottom where it screws into the fork and threaded on the top where a locknut anchors the riser to the stud. The stud itself merely goes through an open hole in the triple tree. (There's only a single triple tree on the Springer). About a 1/3 of the way up from the bottom of the stud is a 3/4 "nut" that doesn't come off the stud; it's part of the stud itself (not an independent nut) and is used to put a wrench on to tighten the stud into the fork BEFORE the riser is then placed onto the stud. The problem is that if the locknut is too tight, there's nothing to grab onto in order to loosen the locknut without removing the entire assembly from the fork. The 3/4 "nut" is recessed inside the riser, so you can't get a socket on it to keep the stud from rotating because there's not enough clearance between the "nut" and the riser to enable you to get a socket in there. So I've tried to double-nut the bottom of the stud to keep it from rotating while trying to loosen the locknut that sits on top of the stud.
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Now that you said it is a springer, I really can't help. I don't have much experience personally with spring front ends. Sorry, I am sure someone else will come along who has a springer and can help.
Drew
Drew
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What year is it. This is a break down for a crossbones.http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....=13&A=592&B=30
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It's a 2000 Heritage Springer. Here's the parts breakdown:
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....=13&A=250&B=36
The stud is part #10, and the locknut is part #8. The bushings I'm replacing are part #12, but I can't get them out without separating the locknut from the stud.
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....=13&A=250&B=36
The stud is part #10, and the locknut is part #8. The bushings I'm replacing are part #12, but I can't get them out without separating the locknut from the stud.
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From: 40 miles Northeast of Indy..
After reading 4 times and being a machine repairman for 38 I am still a little confused in what ur saying..
And as DREW said I also never had a springer but I am more than willing to help out...
BUT
Thinking Ur saying U have a bolt that's threaded on both ends with the nut to turn it is machined into the lower 1/3 of the bolt..?? Now that lower 1/3 bolt is tightened into the forks,????
Then the upper 2/3's of the bolt goes through Ur triple tree and Ur risiers slide over the top part of the bolt and its also machined to go into Ur triple tree while the a nut is tightend to the make the risers tight.????
Now when U say the Loctnut it too tight,, Where the Hell did it come from. Unless U mean that's the nut that's machined into the bolt, then if so It aint an locknut....
Also it don't make sense U are double nutting the bottom when U can't get a socket in the riser to loosen it anyway....
U know what, I've always heard a PIC is worth and Thousand words...
In this case, the way Ur trying to explain it,, thats really TRUE...
How about a Pic then maybe U can get some help.
Just though of a tool U might use. Its called a THIN Walll Socket. It will get in to tighter holes than a reg socket.
If I dont get back or if U dont' U can always drill the SOB out.
.
And as DREW said I also never had a springer but I am more than willing to help out...
BUT
Thinking Ur saying U have a bolt that's threaded on both ends with the nut to turn it is machined into the lower 1/3 of the bolt..?? Now that lower 1/3 bolt is tightened into the forks,????
Then the upper 2/3's of the bolt goes through Ur triple tree and Ur risiers slide over the top part of the bolt and its also machined to go into Ur triple tree while the a nut is tightend to the make the risers tight.????
Now when U say the Loctnut it too tight,, Where the Hell did it come from. Unless U mean that's the nut that's machined into the bolt, then if so It aint an locknut....
Also it don't make sense U are double nutting the bottom when U can't get a socket in the riser to loosen it anyway....
U know what, I've always heard a PIC is worth and Thousand words...
In this case, the way Ur trying to explain it,, thats really TRUE...
How about a Pic then maybe U can get some help.
Just though of a tool U might use. Its called a THIN Walll Socket. It will get in to tighter holes than a reg socket.
If I dont get back or if U dont' U can always drill the SOB out.
.
Last edited by oct1949; Nov 14, 2011 at 04:29 PM.
