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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 08:07 AM
  #11  
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Also, be very careful to make sure that you have plenty of brake fluid in the MC when you try to pump the lever. It's very easy to blow out the seals in the MC without enough fluid. I had that happen on my Sporty and it took forever to figure out why they wouldn't pump up. It's tough to tell you even did it, but I pulled the MC apart and sure enough, the rubber cup was just letting enough fluid by that it would never pump up. Installed a rebuild kit and it worked like a charm.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 08:22 AM
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I use Tom's rig to fill the line. Save yourself some headaches and bench bleed the caliper also,air is easily trapped in them. Get a can of non chlorinated brake cleaner and clean the piston also.Just the slightest ring of build up of road grime around it will cause you problems when the piston goes back into it's normal travel.Order a set of speedbleeders.problem solved.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 01:34 PM
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With all my off-road bikes, I spend a lot of time bleeding brakes. I have the mighty vac, and while it works great on cars, its a PITA for bikes.

Get one of these: http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...+BRAKE+BLEEDER

Its a one-way valve. It lets fluid out, but doesn't let air in. Put fluid in your master cylinder and keep pumping (ad fluid as it gets low) until all the air is out. Tighten the bleeder valve when done, then remove tool. This makes it a piece of cake for one person to do.; and its cheap.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by punisher660
With all my off-road bikes, I spend a lot of time bleeding brakes. I have the mighty vac, and while it works great on cars, its a PITA for bikes.
How so?
Thanks
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 05:07 PM
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The issues I had were:

1. Hose kept popping off the bleeder valve while bleeding brakes. (It was the weight of the hose causing it to happen)

2. I can't see the master cylinder from where I have to use the vac-pump from because the hose is too short. (a longer hose could fix this though, but would be even more weight pulling it off the bleeder valve)

3. When the hose pops off, the lines suck air - and I have to do it all over.

4. The overall use is just cumbersome compared to the other valve.

5. Multiple parts to keep track of (it has different fittings and attachments for various vehicle applications)

6. Expensive compared to the other bleeder valve

Don't get me wrong - they mighty vac does work, but its like pulling out the pressure washer, hose, and ladder to clean something when all you really needed was a damp rag. I use the mighty vac on my truck or the wife's car, but for a bike, the other is so much easier to work with. It takes only a couple of minutes to bleed brakes by myself.

That's just my experience.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by punisher660
The issues I had were:

1. Hose kept popping off the bleeder valve while bleeding brakes. (It was the weight of the hose causing it to happen)

2. I can't see the master cylinder from where I have to use the vac-pump from because the hose is too short. (a longer hose could fix this though, but would be even more weight pulling it off the bleeder valve)

3. When the hose pops off, the lines suck air - and I have to do it all over.

4. The overall use is just cumbersome compared to the other valve.

5. Multiple parts to keep track of (it has different fittings and attachments for various vehicle applications)

6. Expensive compared to the other bleeder valve.
Interesting. I have the Mighty Vac, but have never used it, and these were the exact concerns I had when imagining how I would use this device to bleed my brakes.

Thanks
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 06:44 PM
  #17  
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I just replaced the brake line on my ride and i used the open-squeeze-close-release method. it worked fine for me except for a slight spongy feel when all air was out. what i did notice while doing this was when i had the frt wheel turned so the bleeder was out past the wheel was the inside portion of the caliper was actually higher then the bleeder. since air rises to the top, a small amount of air was trapped in the caliper. i turned the frt wheel to the right where the bleeder was higher, made sure the hose was good and tight and gave it two more cycles of the above method and the lever got stiff like it should. since i was using a black hose i couldn't tell how exactly how much air came out, but with the relatively small M/cyl bore capacity it wouldn't take much air to have a spongy feel.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by punisher660
With all my off-road bikes, I spend a lot of time bleeding brakes. I have the mighty vac, and while it works great on cars, its a PITA for bikes.

Get one of these: http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...+BRAKE+BLEEDER

Its a one-way valve. It lets fluid out, but doesn't let air in. Put fluid in your master cylinder and keep pumping (ad fluid as it gets low) until all the air is out. Tighten the bleeder valve when done, then remove tool. This makes it a piece of cake for one person to do.; and its cheap.
That's pretty cool. It's like a speed bleeder on a hose only cheaper.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 09:35 PM
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i use the mity vac, it has paid for its self big time! i use it to bleed brakes and bleed the clutch on one of my cars, as well as my bike never had a prob ever!
 
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 12:57 AM
  #20  
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I always take caliper off put a rotor in between pads and make sure to hold up above the MC and make sure bleeder valve is turned upward also......need 2 people ....1 to pump and 1 to open/close valve
 
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