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Has anyone done the Excile with fuel injected bike? How does it work?
Exile with EFI here also. Works great so far, same issue as Drew@HogPro, but I just ran a 1/4" drill bit into the sleeve on the throttle body. Different means to the same end.
The idle cable is only a DOT mandated safety cable. The return spring is on the carb or throttle body. It's there in case the throttle sticks open, the rider can force it closed by twisting the grip forward. With only one cable, if the throttle were to stick, the rider would have to clutch or kill the engine somehow.
Thanks for the clarification as i have been looking at this for some time and i know streamline uses a spring in the assembly but i could not find any info if exile did.
Ok, I talked to my indy about running my stuff internal if and when I decide to go with apes. He told me that since mine was an EFI setup, with needing a cable to go both ways because of the EFI, he either said it couldn't be done or that he did not know if it could be done and that it would be a major pain in the azz to do, whats up with that? That was one of the main reasons I wanted to go with apes, my shoulder and back problems and to hide the cables. So since I do have EFI, what is the best set up to go with if and when I do my apes? Thanks for the info.
Ok, I talked to my indy about running my stuff internal if and when I decide to go with apes. He told me that since mine was an EFI setup, with needing a cable to go both ways because of the EFI, he either said it couldn't be done or that he did not know if it could be done and that it would be a major pain in the azz to do, whats up with that? That was one of the main reasons I wanted to go with apes, my shoulder and back problems and to hide the cables. So since I do have EFI, what is the best set up to go with if and when I do my apes? Thanks for the info.
When you get your new bars, get a new indy too.
Plenty of guys on here, myself included, are running an internal throttle with EFI. You dont "need" a cable to go both ways. The idle cable is only a safety and is essentially unused unless something breaks on the throttle body. AFAIK, EFI and carb are essentially identical from the return spring up to the grip.
Ya know when he told me that it didn't hit me right. I mean I am no ace mechanic but I am no fool and I been around and around bikes for a very long time. I am not yet ready for them so when he told me that I just kinda blew him off. I agree, a new indy is in order. He's a nice enough guy but he has just rubbed me the wrong way from day one. He's one of these guys that almost makes you feel like he is doing you a favor by me allowing him to work on my bike!!! This will be the straw that broke the camals back for me. I am not going to wait for a 1k screw up to open my eyes and go else where. In any case I am very glad to hear that I can. I assumed I could because I have seen them!!!
I have just started the installation process for the exile throttle with the carlini flyin apes. I purchased the fly by wire version, non dimpled. My major issue so far was that the bar wall thickness is thicker than standard. So the exile unit would not just slide in. I purchased an expandable reamer and reamed out the inside of the bar, SLOWLY until it slid in nicely. The other problem was the direction called for cutting off 4.5" off the end when the grip part is 4". If I would have taken 4.5 off the switch housings and master cylinder would not have fit. The only thing I can stress is measure...measure and right before hacking/drilling...measure again...and then once more...you know for good measure.
I have just started the installation process for the exile throttle with the carlini flyin apes. I purchased the fly by wire version, non dimpled. My major issue so far was that the bar wall thickness is thicker than standard. So the exile unit would not just slide in. I purchased an expandable reamer and reamed out the inside of the bar, SLOWLY until it slid in nicely. The other problem was the direction called for cutting off 4.5" off the end when the grip part is 4". If I would have taken 4.5 off the switch housings and master cylinder would not have fit. The only thing I can stress is measure...measure and right before hacking/drilling...measure again...and then once more...you know for good measure.
Had the same issue, used a dremel to slowly ream out mine. And yes, the directions are wrong regarding the amount to cut off the end of the bar. I got fly by wire bars also, I needed to fill in the wiring slots since I'm not running control housings. Cutting sections out of the hacked off bar end, beveling and welding into the slots worked great. And cutting the bars is best done with a plumbers tubing cutter. Takes longer, but leaves a nice square edge.
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