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Runnin 21's in my 88". Ran them for awahile with a stage one download only. Later installed a Dolbeck DFO to richen the fuel a bit more. It does perform better with the dfo, not necessary though. A 2n1 makes a nice noticeable bump also. Dont expect too much with just cams and TD's in an 88"...
fwiw - I would not do gear cams in my 06. I'd go newer cam plate, oil pump and hydro tensioners.
The best thing to do would be to 1st, do your heads!! I know you don't want to hear that but it's true. Not just for the immediate benefits either. If you get the heads done 1st no matter what you do after that it will always benifit you each and everytime you do something else or new. Having said that I have a 95 kit with some other stuff and I run the SE 211's and it's so sweet! Good luck and would love to hear what you did and how it's working for you.
Doing heads with bolt in cams such as 21, 26, 203, 204... is not needed. Especially with your 06 heads which are the same as later model heads. Maybe, although not necessary, deck them to increase compression.
Not to rob the thread but I think the op would benefit from this also
I am surprised to hear that a tuner is not needed with a cam change? I also am going to do the SE kit and likely the Andrews 21 or 26 and always thought I would need a fuel management system.
So some of u guys are saying the stg1 download which I have now is good enough?
Not to rob the thread but I think the op would benefit from this also
I am surprised to hear that a tuner is not needed with a cam change? I also am going to do the SE kit and likely the Andrews 21 or 26 and always thought I would need a fuel management system.
So some of u guys are saying the stg1 download which I have now is good enough?
If there is not that much difference in the cam lift/profile from the stock cams that you're replacing, (and Andrews are pretty mild,) at least on my Stage II download included from the factory, I did not need any additional downloads / adjustments running the 26's that were replacing the stock 203's.
I only adjusted the idles ( cold and hot,) manually.
I only suggested taking it one step at a time. With the Delphi Injection, a tuner/additional download might still be needed. ( But maybe not!)
A bolt in cam is well within the autotune range if you have an closed loop O2 sensor bike. '06 bikes w/o O2 sensors but with a mild cam, air cleaner, and pipes should probably have a tuner installed... a piggy back at least, in my opinion.
If you want your air cooled engine to last longer, keep the temperature lower than what the EPA does to it and that requires a tuner. If you trade it in every 20k miles then it's not as big a deal... except to the next guy.
I saw evidence of this when I just did my cams and cam chain tensioners. I used a piggy back tuned for mileage and performance together for quite a few years and had decel pop and summer overheating. I eventually changed to a richer mixture which fixed the decel pop and probably would have helped make the cam last longer. You could see the discoloration in the cam coating and the bearing journals were starting to pit.
Let's see... 10% on the fuel mileage over 60k miles vs. cost of new cams? At today's fuel prices it was probably break even <grin>.
Not to rob the thread but I think the op would benefit from this also
I am surprised to hear that a tuner is not needed with a cam change? I also am going to do the SE kit and likely the Andrews 21 or 26 and always thought I would need a fuel management system.
So some of u guys are saying the stg1 download which I have now is good enough?
No doubt the bike would benefit from a real tune and you would feel the diff. I agree that richening the mix, cooling the engine down is good thing, hence I scored a DFO on eBay. However, the bike ran fine with cams and stage 1 download. Lots of people run them this way with a mild bolt in cam.
Lots of choices and opinions. Research and do what you feel comfortable with.
Doing heads with bolt in cams such as 21, 26, 203, 204... is not needed. Especially with your 06 heads which are the same as later model heads. Maybe, although not necessary, deck them to increase compression.
Maybe not needed, but certainly a really good suggestion... here are my heads I just pulled off to have worked, which have 14k miles on them:
Looking inside the ports and dome it is obvious why a port and polish job is a good suggestion for a relatively cheap mod, IMHO.
OK Tunaman, I'll ask, are we looking at something good, normal, or bad? What is a set of ported and polished heads going to look like after 14K? Just trying to learn something.
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