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Maybe you did not line up the banjo bolts properly when you reassembled them. Remember that they have holes in them to pass the fluid from reservoir to the disc setup.
I have personally done this and had to use a Sharpie to make sure flow was restored and the stoppers operated so I didn't meet the person in front of me.
Figured out what you're talking about. Am re-aligning see if that works :-)
Open the top and bottom bolts and see where the holes are. There are four holes one in each banjo and the bolts that go thru the banjos. Those 4 holes gotta line up.
Maybe you did not line up the banjo bolts properly when you reassembled them. Remember that they have holes in them to pass the fluid from reservoir to the disc setup.
I have personally done this and had to use a Sharpie to make sure flow was restored and the stoppers operated so I didn't meet the person in front of me.
Originally Posted by eric2011Deluxe
Where is the hole suppose to be? 90%?
Originally Posted by eric2011Deluxe
Figured out what you're talking about. Am re-aligning see if that works :-)
Originally Posted by Tee&Vee
Open the top and bottom bolts and see where the holes are. There are four holes one in each banjo and the bolts that go thru the banjos. Those 4 holes gotta line up.
Originally Posted by eric2011Deluxe
How do you line them up? No matter what possion I start screwing in it seem to end up alnost the same spot.
Not sure what you guys are talking about lining up. The banjo fitting has a 360 degree groove for the fluid to pass through. With the 360 degree groove there is no reason to try to line anything up. The fluid passes through the fitting groove into the hole of the bolt wherever that hole in the bolt ends up.
Are you referring to some other alignment? I just can't picture what your saying.
Last edited by 2black1s; Mar 31, 2012 at 03:26 PM.
Like I said, I used a Sharpie to show where the holes were in the brake bolts, the banjos were self-explanatory. Use a pair of wrenches to hold it straight. This job sux but you NEED a front brake regardless of what the following posts will say.
2black1s, my reservoir was stock and now hat u mention it did have a 360 track but my bottom one lost almost all chrome and had to be replaced so I bought one from the indie and it certainly had to be precise, it was a Goodrich or Goodrige, don't remember...
2black1s, my reservoir was stock and now hat u mention it did have a 360 track but my bottom one lost almost all chrome and had to be replaced so I bought one from the indie and it certainly had to be precise, it was a Goodrich or Goodrige, don't remember...
You must have had some other issue. The clocking relationship of the banjo fitting and the bolt is irrelevant.
Do I screw the reservoir top on when I bleed it or keep it off?
Leave the top off. I left it on the first time I did a brake line and couldn't get anything going. I read the manual and it says to leave it off...this made life so much easier.
Do I screw the reservoir top on when I bleed it or keep it off?
Yes, your brake system is a "hydraulic" system that takes movement(you squeezing the lever) and transfers that movement through your brake lines, and makes the piston in the calliper move, thereby squeezing the brake rotor. Fluids do not compress but air does, therefore the system must be completely separated from the atmosphere. Simply top the brake reservoir up replace the screws and bleed the system. Once all the air is out and you have a good feel in the lever, top up the reservoir replace the screws and go ride.
Eric2011Deluxe - As well intentioned as some of the previous recommendations are, they are only adding to your confusion.
Take this as you may, but here is a process that will fix your problem.
Tighten the banjo bolt any which way you can. There is no alignment to worry about. Then do the following:
1) Fill the master cyl
2) Open the bleeder
3) Depress the lever
4) Close the bleeder
5) Release the lever
Repeat steps 2-4 as many time as necessary until you have fluid coming out the bleeder. Do not let the master cylinder run dry during these steps, and do not release the lever until the bleeder is closed.
Once you have fluid coming out the bleeder then do the following steps.
6) Pump the lever 4 or 5 times and hold
7) Open the bleeder while maintaining pressure on the lever
8) Close the bleeder when the lever reaches the bar
9) Release the lever
Repeat steps 6-9 as many times as necessary until you have a firm brake pedal. Again, do not let the master cylinder run dry during these steps, and do not release the lever until the bleeder is closed.
This process is for non-ABS systems only. If you have ABS then a completely different process must be used.
Good Luck.
Last edited by 2black1s; Mar 31, 2012 at 05:19 PM.
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