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Front brake doesn't work please help

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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 03:59 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by chiefe
Yes, your brake system is a "hydraulic" system that takes movement(you squeezing the lever) and transfers that movement through your brake lines, and makes the piston in the calliper move, thereby squeezing the brake rotor. Fluids do not compress but air does, therefore the system must be completely separated from the atmosphere. Simply top the brake reservoir up replace the screws and bleed the system. Once all the air is out and you have a good feel in the lever, top up the reservoir replace the screws and go ride.
The manual for my 06 says to bleed with the reservoir lid off. There is a note at the beginning of the procedure that says "Remove master cylinder reservoir cover so that the system cannot pressurized"
 
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 05:46 PM
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Damn where's the football? Hope you got it figured out after all of that confusing chit.

It's not difficult or complicated. Remove and leave off the master cylinder cover making sure the MC stays full.

Attach a piece of 1/4 ID clear hose to the bleeder valve long enough that it'll go into your bottle of brake fluid sitting the floor.

BV closed, hose in bottle, pump your brake lever multiple times. Best to have someone help.

Pump the handle and hold it. Crack the BV open until you have fluid draining. Close the BV. Repeat a couple times until you get fluid flowing.

If you have the hose in the bottle of brake fluid, at this point you can leave the BV open and pump to bleed all the air. Make sure the MC doesn't get low or your going to allow air back in the system. Once you clear the air, seal up the the system by putting the MC cover back on and ensuring the BV is tight.

That's after a few Jacks so hope it makes sense.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 06:04 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 2black1s
Not sure what you guys are talking about lining up. The banjo fitting has a 360 degree groove for the fluid to pass through. With the 360 degree groove there is no reason to try to line anything up. The fluid passes through the fitting groove into the hole of the bolt wherever that hole in the bolt ends up.

Are you referring to some other alignment? I just can't picture what your saying.
Looked at the screw and it does have a 360 degree groove for the fluid to pass through. I figured out why it wadnt working, the cilynder was leaking where the lever pushes the litle rod looking thing. So I installed the original back on and after bleeding system its all back to narmal.

I was installing a new chrome set I purchased si i guess its going back.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 06:11 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by NC D'LUXE
Damn where's the football? Hope you got it figured out after all of that confusing chit.

It's not difficult or complicated. Remove and leave off the master cylinder cover making sure the MC stays full.

Attach a piece of 1/4 ID clear hose to the bleeder valve long enough that it'll go into your bottle of brake fluid sitting the floor.

BV closed, hose in bottle, pump your brake lever multiple times. Best to have someone help.

Pump the handle and hold it. Crack the BV open until you have fluid draining. Close the BV. Repeat a couple times until you get fluid flowing.

If you have the hose in the bottle of brake fluid, at this point you can leave the BV open and pump to bleed all the air. Make sure the MC doesn't get low or your going to allow air back in the system. Once you clear the air, seal up the the system by putting the MC cover back on and ensuring the BV is tight.

That's after a few Jacks so hope it makes sense.
That's exactly what I did. Thank you!!! I spent more time with this then replacing the throttle and clutch cable haha.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 06:11 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by NC D'LUXE
Damn where's the football? Hope you got it figured out after all of that confusing chit.

It's not difficult or complicated. Remove and leave off the master cylinder cover making sure the MC stays full.

Attach a piece of 1/4 ID clear hose to the bleeder valve long enough that it'll go into your bottle of brake fluid sitting the floor.

BV closed, hose in bottle, pump your brake lever multiple times. Best to have someone help.

Pump the handle and hold it. Crack the BV open until you have fluid draining. Close the BV. Repeat a couple times until you get fluid flowing.

If you have the hose in the bottle of brake fluid, at this point you can leave the BV open and pump to bleed all the air. Make sure the MC doesn't get low or your going to allow air back in the system. Once you clear the air, seal up the the system by putting the MC cover back on and ensuring the BV is tight.

That's after a few Jacks so hope it makes sense.
Another well-intentioned method that further adds to the confusion and will not work. I shouldn't say it will not work, it could, depending on where the air is within the system. But it will not work in all cases.

While keeping the tubing in a bottle of brake fluid will prevent sucking air back into the system when you release the lever, you cannot completely remove any air already in the system this way. For example, say you have an air pocket in the brake line. Pumping the lever will move that air pocket downstream, then when you release the lever you will draw fluid back in through the bleeder, hence no new air. But the air pocket that was in the line and moved downstream when you pumped the lever will move back upstream when you release the lever. You end up in a viscous cycle that does nothing to eliminate the air pocket. It just keeps moving back and forth.

Anyone out there can listen to any of the advice given and do it however they like - it makes no difference to me. That said, the method I described earlier, although not the only way, will work 100% of the time.

****! If you've got the time to wait you could simply open the bleeder and let the system gravity bleed.
 

Last edited by 2black1s; Mar 31, 2012 at 06:22 PM.
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 06:20 PM
  #26  
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A simple to install and operate "speed bleeder" works the first time everytime. I could have bled two systems during the time it took to read this variety of methods...mostly good...some not so good. Glad ya got it done...
 
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 06:32 PM
  #27  
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All is well that ends well. Glad you've gotten it taken care of.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 06:49 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 2black1s
Another well-intentioned method that further adds to the confusion and will not work. I shouldn't say it will not work, it could, depending on where the air is within the system. But it will not work in all cases.
Not confusing at all, a pretty damn simple and straight forward process that hasn't failed me yet. Obviously it works, but then again, maybe it's just luck stopping me and not my brakes.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 07:06 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by NC D'LUXE
Not confusing at all, a pretty damn simple and straight forward process that hasn't failed me yet. Obviously it works, but then again, maybe it's just luck stopping me and not my brakes.
No. It's not just luck stopping you, it is your brakes.

Where the luck comes into play is your bleeding method. Like I said, it could work and for you it has, but it is not a 100% reliable method. The amount and location of the air in the system plays a significant role. That's all I'm saying.
 

Last edited by 2black1s; Mar 31, 2012 at 07:13 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2012 | 01:11 AM
  #30  
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Hey Brother-You mentioned leaking at the master cylinder push rod? Do you have fluid dripping or did you notice air bubbles in the reservoir? If you don't have an external leak...the air bubbles are exactly what you want to see. Brake fluid is compressible, much lower rate than air though. With a cold beer in one hand...very quickly and lightly tap the brake lever so it barely moves the rod. When the bubbles stop, then hold pressure on the lever and the tubing mentioned above in place crack the bleeder screw - retighten screw. You're finished. By the way don't mess with the brakes on a rainy or humid day - brake fluid is formulated to absorb water/moisture.
 
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