Hello Forum. Can someone help me and explain how to change my rear pads on my 2003 Deuce. Or is there a video on how to do it.
I assume its the two larger bolts on the rear caliper that should not be removed. The two smaller ones loosen the pads, i then just pull the two pads out?
thanx Shaun
south africa

 

Helps

 

U'll find a lot if U just do a search,,, Google is the best to find stuff...

here's a write up here in HDF..
https://www.hdforums.com/articles/so...on-softail.php


I will add the brakes and tires is the two things I won't do... Our local Indy charges $17.50 per to change the front and rear brake pads.. plus they clean the pistons better the dealer did the one time I let them do it.. I won't mess with them for that little $$$..



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I did them on my 02'. I'm assuming they are the same style. It was a bit of work, & videos on it were scarce. The ones I did find were for other bykes with different break calipers.
What I did was remove the wheel, spread the pads gently with a flathead screwdriver to compress the calipers, loosenin and remove the two small hex screw guide rods for the pads. That's where the easy part ended. Gettin the new pads in was tuff. I had to squeeze the vibration spring with some channel locks to compress it a bit to fit the new shoes. (Not in any directions). After getting them in, it to a bit of wrenching about to get it all back together. Be patient. It's a hard angle if you only have a floor jack. But it can be done.

 

If you get the Harley pads the sheet that comes with them explains it pretty well. Will post it here later if you cannot not locate it in PDF at the Harley.com web site under parts

 

I will add the brakes and tires is the two things I won't do... Our local Indy charges $17.50 per to change the front and rear brake pads.. plus they clean the pistons better the dealer did the one time I let them do it.. I won't mess with them for that little $$$..

Wow, it's not worth getting your hands dirty for $17.50. But I don't live anywhere close to Indiana, so I do brake pads myself. I've never asked what the dealer charges, but I know it's more than I'm willing to pay for an easy job.

To the OP: Get an HD Service Manual. It's the best money you'll spend on your bike. Even if you don't plan to do your own maintenance, knowing the proceedures means you can talk intelligently about your bike to the service writer or tech.

OK, rear brake pads. Take the cap off the rear master cylinder (right ahead of the rear brake lever). This will allow the brake fluid to flow back to the reservoir when you compress the caliper piston. You don't need to remove the rear wheel OR the caliper to change the brake pads.

Loosen the pad pins and remove them 1/2 way out. Use a large screwdriver to contact the inside brake pad against the rotor. Apply pressure to force the pistons back into the bore. This takes a few minutes because the brake fluid has to travel up the brake lines and back to the reservoir. Make sure they are both retracted flush with the caliper. Slide old pad out, slide new pad in.

Put the caliper pins all the way back in and tighten them. Pump the brake lever until pressure is restored. Now the pistons are holding the inside pad against the rotor, so you can loosen the caliper pins and remove them entirely. Do same proceedure to the outside pad, re-install pad pins, torque to spec, pump up brake lever and you're down the road.

I did my front brake pads last Saturday and on that one you have to remove the caliper. Piece of cake, took me about 15 minutes for the whole deal.

I also have an '03 Deuce and the brake pads (like a bunch of other stuff) are unique to the FXSTD. The inside and outside pads are different, so make sure you are careful to not mix them up. Good luck,

 

I changed my pads on my 02 deuce. You DO NOT need to remove the rear tire. Just spread the pads. But be careful u don't bend the disk. I did alittle but it's still fine. So spread them carefully. Directions with the pads r as good as anything I found. Good luck

 

I have to amend my above statement..

Just had the new Michelin Commenders II mounted today, and had our local INDY put some new Lyndall's pads on the rear..

If he puts new brakes on while installing a new tire, He only charges $12.00 for the brake install.. even better.. Also it was only $6.00 to tighten and true the spokes for both wheel.

Also Ur right about the cost at a dealer, the last time my dealer did the rear pads back in 09 it was $37.50 just for labor.



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Each model is different. It depends upon how much clearance you have around the tire. If you have a motorcycle jack it makes things pretty easy. You can jack the rear tire up high enough to drop the suspension the full amount. On some models you can then loosen all of the rotor bolts and so when you remove the caliper the rotor will be able to move giving you plenty of clearance.

Pulling the wheel makes it easy almost always, depending upon which pipes you have. If your pipes get in the way of pulling the axel, put the axel in backwards so that you don't have to worry about it the next time.

Using wood wedges and a brass hammer is the easiest way to spread the new pads. Wedge in from top and bottom and tap one then the other. Spread until the new pads are almost against the caliper.

Sometimes you will ruin the heads on the pins just getting them loose, especially if they are the 12 point external type.

Make sure you keep the pads clean of petroleum products. Spray your rotor with brake cleaner to remove greasy fingerprints.

Get a shop manual for your bike.

C#

 

Never begin by prying old pads in. Pull the pin retainers. Slide a shim from plywood or what ever you have that is solid and slightly thinner (about 1/16"/ .06/ 2mm) then the two pads you just removed. Push the brake pedal or lever to push pistons out. Now go back to the cleaning process with pistons slightly out further then the were with the worn out pads. Now give them a shoe shinning with a strip of cloth till the pistons are spotless. Now drip couple drops brake fluid on them and shine again. Now you can push them all the way back in with cap off master cylinder. Now the finial step to insure your job will be satisfactory. With the pistons at bottom. Slowly push on master cylinder and insure the 4 pistons all come out equally. Be carefully here since if you do it too fast and pop one all way out, the caliper will have to be totally overhauled. If they do not come out equally the caliper needs overhauled. When one is tighter then the rest you will get uneven pad wear and or chatter. It has taken me 43 years to learn above. Do not tell this to everone but I really like baby spareribs.