Originally Posted by ThePaintPirate

I literally did this on the transmission drain hole last week using the time serts. Used Time Sert #0122A kit and so far it's hasn't leaked a drop.

Originally Posted by ThePaintPirate

I literally did this on the transmission drain hole last week using the time serts. Used Time Sert #0122A kit and so far it's hasn't leaked a drop.

Originally Posted by brithebold

Did you drop the shocks or drill in place? What did you do to control depth? This kit uses a 0.40 length insert??? Tx Bri Hope I can ask some more ?s later

Originally Posted by ThePaintPirate

I did not take out the shocks, thought it would've been easier if I did. It wasn't too hard, just that the hole isn't exactly in the middle of the two, so your tap will be against the side of the left shock, again do-able just not as easy. I didn't do anything to measure how deep I was going in, just tapped a few turns, back it out, clean the tool and keep tapping while inspecting how much I had left to do. I think you're over thinking it, just get the kit I mentioned an you'll be fine.

Originally Posted by mcpastor

Sorry this is so long.

After searching I found many such threads. Here's my story. Thought I'd save a few $$ and learn about my bike by doing regular maintenance. I have the Harley Service Manual for my '06 FLSTCI. Learned how to change the oil & filter, changed primary fluid & adjusted primary chain tension and belt. I have the appropriate torque wrenches. Careful not to over tighten. So far, so good. Fun workin' on your own bike. When I came to the transmission fluid plug it was another story. The 1/4" allen wrench fitting in the middle of the plug stripped. This sucker was on tight. Put a 5/8" socket on the plug and pulled HARD. The bolt moved with a "pop" sound and seemed to loosen normally. It's only supposed to be 14-21 foot pounds with a warning Not to Over-tighten. As the bolt was coming out it became harder to turn the wrench. I switched directions and it went easier, but became harder again as I backed it out. I went ahead and backed it out and yep... found aluminum between the threads on the steel bolt. Since this is the first time I'VE done the transmission fluid and I've never heard of stripping a bolt while removing it (I suppose it's possible), I think it was over tightened at the dealership which stripped the threads. Now, when I try to re-install the bolt, it aligns with the bottom threads fine, then becomes harder the further it goes in, and actually ***** to the side. I don't want to force it any further. I suspect the threads have separated or shifted because of the over tightening, and the threads in the bottom of the hole are different from the threads in the top.

I have a call in to my dealer mechanic see what he would offer in the way of advice. Not really expecting any recourse like a free fix though a case could be made.

After scouring the forum I've found several Fixes:
1. various kinds of self-tapping oversize diameter drain plugs from an auto parts store (cheap and apparently effective for many on the forum; have to be careful not to re-strip the threads and someone said you can't use o-rings now but you should use thread sealer. A piggy back version of this plug comes with a smaller bolt in the center of the plug so once the main plug is installed you don't have to constantly stress the aluminum threads of the tranny. This includes an o-ring on the smaller bolt but some have used a 10mm brake washer (rubber and steel) with better success because it doesn't squish and squirm out of place.

2. Heli-coil. A local Harley shop will install this for over $100 depending on how long it took. If I went this route I would install it myself using a kit around $30. These are readily available at auto parts stores. Requires drilling out existing threads, cutting new ones, installing the heli-coil and reinstalling original bolt (a plus). The original bolt has the 1/4" allen center which is an excellent way to "feel" the plug threads "start" so it doesn't get cross threaded again. A long allen key works best because of the location of the Softail shocks. Most of the plugs in auto stores that I have found don't have an allen fitting, and some don't have the magnet that the original plug has for capturing bits of metal.

3. Time-Sert. This is the solution I really want to go with but it's pricy. It installs similarly to a heli-coil but becomes a "permanent" solution, lining the aluminum hole with steel threads pressed firmly into place. Heli coils work for many but some have had them work their way out or leak. I've not found bad press on the Time-Sert except the price. For the 1/2-20 thread kit it's about $100 (some other sizes are cheaper on eBay), plus I probably need to get a bigger threader driver handle and maybe one of Time-Sert's optional guides for another $13 to make sure the threading goes in straight. Seems like a lot of $$$. And yes, this can be done without removing the transmission (there is no removable transmission fluid pan on my '06 FLSTCI), using grease to trap small shavings and then flushing with some tranny oil. Some have used shop vacs in addition.

So I've called my friends and the shops. Waiting to hear back from my main dealer mechanic and another mechanic friend. In the meantime, I'm trying to think of every angle. I like the cheap and dirty fix of the self-tapping plug. If I'm the one doing my own work from here on out, I know how to be careful with it. But the threads could get stripped again. Really, since I'm the one doing my own work, I'd like a top rate solution and use Time-sert and the original plug so I don't have to worry about it every time I change the fluids. It's winter so I have the time to do the repair. Maybe I'll post a "wanted" in the classifieds to buy someone's used Time-sert tool.

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

Originally Posted by brithebold

Ordered the kit today. My only worry is chips in trans case after. Dropped bike on its side and removed shocks, about 1 hour. Start when kit comes in. Did you locktite the insert also? Put grease on the tap? I will try both these. Thanks bri

Originally Posted by Pachuco

I did grease on drill bit and tap. I also poured the old oil through to flush. The case material is pretty soft.

Originally Posted by brithebold

Finished tonight finally. Used the time-sert drain pan repair kit 0122A as recommended above. and I think its the best answer to this problem. This kit also contains a tap guide to keep things square. This kit as I've measured allows full draining of the case and if used correctly should almost never wear out. Please read my note also its an important lesson I learned.
Any way I placed cushions down and rolled the bike to its side. Next removed the shocks for access. Cleaned the area and got out my drill block etc. .About 75% my old threads were gone away and only a few remained in the hole.They looked messed up also. I was able to hold the drill block on the flat face of the drain hole boss. This allowed a nice square to the boss hole drilling. I used a tap "T" handle for the drill bit. The case was soft and drilled by hand with the T. Used a stop collar so as to not drill inside the case internals. I then used the cutter provided by time-sert and cut a nice square flat area for the sert as instructed. I used grease to capture every cutting I could for both drilling & tapping. Changed it many times and reapplied. Still found copious amounts of cuttings when flushing the trans. The sert was lubed as required for the sert setter/driver but cleaned on the outside.with solvent (throttle body spray), also the new threads in the case and used high heat/high strength locking agent. Every thing went well and looked proper which is unusual for my garage. I left the bike for 48 hours for a good cure on the locking agent. Replaced the shocks and stood the bike up. Started to flush.

note: Bought a new magnetic stock drain plug from HD to use. It would not fit or start. Suspected bad things with time-sert. Got out a 1/4-20 fine nut. Plug would not thread into it either. Got out my die set. Well well well plug would not fit the die either. Nor the neighbors die either. Plug covered with white stuff. Cleaned off all the white stuff. Still no fit. Ran the plug into the die. Die started cutting the second thread bringing off a thin sliver of a cutting, small but certainly enough to mess up these soft alloy case holes. Once the die was farther along maybe 3 1/2 or 4 threads all resistance went away and rest of threads were fine all the way to the o ring. This was a new plug. Now it fit the nuts, dies and low and behold the time-serted drain. Screwed in with only fingers all the way to the o ring. This is a fine thread (1/2x20 plug steel going to fit into soft alloy any defects (made in China plug) will mess up your case. I will be checking every plug and other things before changing them. PS my bike came with messed up hole threads and this is the only time I have ever put the plug into the case (time-serted). The old original plug also found with poor non fitting threads and probably caused the problem since built.
Flushed with 2 gallons varsol with some dex3 tranny oil added (it prevents flash rust if the solvent drys in humid areas). Probably 20+ flushes. Metal alloy cuttings continued to come out right until the end (+2 steel shavings from I know not where). Plug went into the sert many times always with fingers and an easy start in an awkward area. I am very please with this repair. I think it is stronger than original. Trans is full now so a good ride tomorrow to warm everything up and circulate everything and then another drain hot and replace the oil for any last cling ons and cuttings. Happy camper. A little more work and many ways to solve this problem but if you are keeping your bike for a while I think this is the best repair.