Chrome fork sliders
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Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Farmingdale, New York
your service manual will show the complete dissasembly of the forks. you DONT need to release the springs. allen bolt, dust shield, and upper seal is all the further you need to go. top and bottom halfs will pull apart. re-assemble with new seals, and correct amount of fluid. i use screaming eagle heavy duty....NOT RACE VERSION. guy on ebay (rick9662) has great prices on chrome lowers, and several in the touring section have used him with great success. better than h.d. in quality....steve
This was the way I was going to do it........... less steps but is there seals I should replace and won't be able to if don't take them completely apart???
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: trivoli illinois
nope....everything will be good. to seperate the two halfs it lakes a little working back and forth. like a slide hammer action. nothing to do with the springs, its the seal below the dust shield. youll see, the first fork takes a bit to do, the second one...half the time. really not too bad to do. follow the manual for remove/install....steve
Last edited by snip0721; Feb 11, 2013 at 10:14 PM. Reason: added wording
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Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Farmingdale, New York
nope....everything will be good. to seperate the two halfs it lakes a little working back and forth. like a slide hammer action. nothing to do with the springs, its the seal below the dust shield. youll see, the first fork takes a bit to do, the second one...half the time. really not too bad to do. follow the manual for remove/install....steve
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Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Farmingdale, New York
nope....everything will be good. to seperate the two halfs it lakes a little working back and forth. like a slide hammer action. nothing to do with the springs, its the seal below the dust shield. youll see, the first fork takes a bit to do, the second one...half the time. really not too bad to do. follow the manual for remove/install....steve
so the only seals I need to replace are the ones that go under the dust cover and naturally the ones under the fill bolts(1 3/8" ones on top of forks) they are new though, I changed them when I changed the fork oil.........
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 119
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From: Southern California
After removing the front wheel and Before loosening the triple tree clamps.....
I broke the fork damper bolts loose with a cordless impact wrench and 6mm impact allen driver. Wasn't a problem, at all!
Get a straight shank allen! Got mine on ebay. The ball end types can snap! Then your screwed! The Triple tree clamps work great as a vice. Just don't remove the bolts all the way, because the fork oil will run out.
I used a muffler pipe adapter and an 18" piece of muffler pipe to drive in the New fork seals. Perfect fit.
Good luck
I broke the fork damper bolts loose with a cordless impact wrench and 6mm impact allen driver. Wasn't a problem, at all!
Get a straight shank allen! Got mine on ebay. The ball end types can snap! Then your screwed! The Triple tree clamps work great as a vice. Just don't remove the bolts all the way, because the fork oil will run out.
I used a muffler pipe adapter and an 18" piece of muffler pipe to drive in the New fork seals. Perfect fit.
Good luck
Last edited by sjbodie; Feb 12, 2013 at 05:44 AM.
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From: Farmingdale, New York
Cool, Thanks Steve and everyone else for the help and tips............... You Men are great..................
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Joined: Jun 2012
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
But with the ball end, which I just cut off.
And save some time and just buy the "Fork Rebuild Kits" at the dealer [p/n 49377-09A] - contains all necessary seals, bushings, snap rings, and even new damper bolts and washers.
But for some strange reason, it doesn't included new drain plug screws and washers [p/n 45858-77], which you'll need to replace too. They were only a couple bucks more.
..and don't forget [2] pints of the Type E fork oil, and some anti-seize for the axle...
Last edited by jam436; Feb 12, 2013 at 02:08 PM.
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Joined: Jun 2012
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
And I just used the old steel seal spacer on top of the new seal to help protect it, and it also helped drive the new seal in nice and straight.