98" FuelMoto Big Bore
I opened the cam cover to get ready to replace the tensioner shoes and update the oil pump spring.
I popped of the cover and was staring at GEAR DRIVE cams!
I knew the PO installed 510 cams but i didnt know they were gear drive, when i told him about it he just said "cool" i didn't know the difference or what the put in. LOL
Just got back from another 70 mile ride. I am still impressed on the smooth power. It just wants to keep pulling.
Unfortunately, I need to replace my internal fuel lines inside the tank. I know I have a pinhole in the supply line, from it rubbing the inside of the tank because they're too long from MOCO. Found submersible replacements on Amazon.
Not that I need it, but did you get that tool out?
I'm thinking of calling Bean tomorrow to try to "grease the wheel"
Did you guys torq the head gaskets according to fuel motos instructions? Ending with 42ftlbs.
S&S says to follow factory specs ending in 90* loosening then retorqing.
Even with MLS gaskets.
Since MLS don't crush I'm thinking fuel motos way would be better.
Rode to work and took the long way home, swinging by my local dealer to pick up a fork seal kit. About 30 miles total. WoooooHooo! Like having another gear.
Stinks about your fuel lines. What vendor did you get them from? Just so I have it on file when it happens to me.
Last edited by QC; Mar 7, 2013 at 09:06 PM.

nothing compared to where some of you guys are..but enough to make me sigh.
Not that I need it, but did you get that tool out?
I'm thinking of calling Bean tomorrow to try to "grease the wheel"
Did you guys torq the head gaskets according to fuel motos instructions? Ending with 42ftlbs.
S&S says to follow factory specs ending in 90* loosening then retorqing.
Even with MLS gaskets.
Since MLS don't crush I'm thinking fuel motos way would be better.
For the torque, I followed the manual, beginning to torque to 120-144 In-lbs in sequence, then ending at 17 ft-lbs. Once at 17, mark the head bolts and turn another 90*.
42 ft-lbs seems pretty high to me, but I'm no expert.
One thing, before you put the cylinders back on, apply a very light film of clean oil to the headbolt studs. If not done, you may end up with a false torque reading.
Rode to work and took the long way home, swinging by my local dealer to pick up a fork seal kit. About 30 miles total. WoooooHooo! Like having another gear.
Stinks about your fuel lines. What vendor did you get them from? Just so I have it on file when it happens to me.
I'll be ordering these:
I found all the details in another thread in the Dyna forum. Us EFI Softailers have the same set up.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...fuel-line.html
So, you'll need two lines and 4 self-adjusting clamps.
For the top plate of the tank, you'll need new self-sealing screws from HD. Part number 1311D (x10) and a top plate gasket, P/N 61381-02.
Should be able to remove the rear bolt of the tank and stick a water botle under there on the spine to tilt the tank forward and keep gas from pouring out the quick disconnect outlet when it's removed. The top plate is easy enough to remove, but it's tricky getting the fuel pump assembly hinge to open as it should.
Certainly no worse than rebuilding the engine!
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
QC may be set to get even more.
Hard to complain about the snow. It's been so dry here in Colorado, and after last year's wildfire season, we really need the moisture.
I smeared the inside of the head bolts with motor oil real good.
They're talking about a foot or more up here tonight.
This is Spring for us. They're already talking about another snowstorm next week. March may live up to its billing as our snowiest month this year.
I don't know about you Red, but yesterday I was cruising along at about 65 and I realized I was still in 4th. Before at anything above 50, I couldn't get into 5th fast enough. Maybe I'm just being optimistic.









