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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 08:29 AM
  #11  
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It ain't rocket surgery.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 09:17 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by QC
It ain't rocket surgery.
True, but equating a cam change to the ease of a spark plug change is highly misleading...
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 09:25 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by QC
It ain't rocket surgery.
Don't be so sure of that. A lot of riders I'm aware of have trouble screwing the gas cap on after they pump.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 11:30 AM
  #14  
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Back on subject, there are a ton of different choices for different applications and for different weight bikes.. The 2 big determining factors in how a cam will behave is duration and lobe seperation angle (LSA).
to dumb it down big time, more duration less vacuum at lower engine speeds which means more power at higher engine speeds (rpms). Wider LSA builds more cylinder pressure at lower speeds while narrower LSA bleeds off the pressure and builds torque at higher speeds. It all depends upon where you want your torque curve to begin and end, don't go too big. A cam with too much duration LSA and valve lift will run like **** at part throttle (street riding) unless you have all of the other motor work and mods needed to work together (intake, exhaust, heads, higher compression, larger injectors, better clutch)

If you are keeping the motor stock other than cams the SE 255 will work fine but that cam runs out of steam at 4k, there are also several other cams that work well with stock internals. The woods 222 cam or S&S 510 (similar to woods 6-6 grind)

to be safe you can pick any cam with 240 degrees or less duration (over 240 with a wide LSA it's possible that valve to piston events could happen) and less than
.580 valve lift and it will function with your stock internals.

regardless of cam that you choose you will need a good dyno tune,

There will probably be 20 more posts with extended opinions. The SE 255 cam comes on the CVO bikes and is much better than the stock cam but there are others that are better as that cam has to pass emissions..
 
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 11:40 AM
  #15  
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I am very happy with my woods 555. Come on a hit later but pull to the top.... something to keep in mind if u r doing it urself.... like said will run up close to a 1000 $...

Cams- $300-400
Adj push rods- $130
Gasket kit with new inner bearings-$50
Inner cam bearing tools from heartland- $150

Then some sort of fuel management if u don't have something compatible. For me it was a $150 dyno tune with the SERT I already had.... but a good power commander or etc is fine.... what I've read the fuel pack and other cheaper tuners don't quite have the tuning capability with a good set of cams
 
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 02:02 PM
  #16  
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I got my bike back today with the se 255's installed. I love it. It sounds better (I was not expecting that) and pulls better that the original cam. For instance I was behind someone on a 4 lane highway and they began slowing down. With my old cam I would shift down a gear and then pass with power. With the new cam I merely hit the throttle and the power was waiting. I was traveling around 50 mph. I am thrilled with the improvement and I don't see myself pushing my 103b any further with new pistons, etc. So for now I am in heaven.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 02:09 PM
  #17  
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Awesome news! What it's all about!
 
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 05:59 PM
  #18  
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I will say that this is not the site to get advice from on which cam to choose. There are better options out there to learn and research.
 
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