+1 on getting a manual. Will pay for itself 10x over.

As for not getting oil everywhere for the filter, learned a trick when I got the filter trap from J&P..... punch a nail hole in the top of the end of the filter, then get a filter trap (or you can make one from a milk jug) then spin the filter around to the bottom so it drains out all the extra oil. Once drained, it won't hardly make a mess.

 

Do I need a chrome oil filter or is that cover chrome?

 

Don't need a chrome one. What cover are you talking about?

 

There are K&N filters that have a nut on the end that makes install and removal very easy. They come in black and chrome.

 

Yes

 

There is no cover...the filter is either black or chrome...you can buy either.

 

Put some aluminum foil under the oil filter and make a funnel of it that drains down in to your oil pan or whatever..keeps the oil from getting everywhere too

 

just draining the tank leaves 24 to 32 oz of dirty oil in the engine, here is
a procedure to get all the dirty oil out, and not cost much at all.

To start with, Lisle Tools, and probably others make the tooling to remove your oil line quick connect. Check this link for Lisle-- http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=604
These can be purchased from your local Sears store also for around $10.
Also says on the packaging that you can purchase the 3/8" tool (PN 37050) separately (replacement tool) from the complete set from Lisle..

You will also need a length of 3/8" clear tubing that you will put over your oil return line, and a small bucket, preferably with ounces marked on the outside so you can see how much oil you have collected.

A typical scavenge type oil change might go something like this:

Step 1: Run the engine for a bit to get it up to temperature

Step 2: Block up the jiffy stand or use something to get your bike reasonably level.

Step 3: Remove plug from bottom of oil tank. Drain oil into container.

Step 4: Install drain plug and replace o-ring if it is torn. If it is still in good condition, reuse.

Step 5: Top off oil tank with fresh oil up to the full mark on the dipstick.

Step 6: Use the quick connect tooling and remove the oil return line from the oil tank. It is the one closest to the filler neck on the tank. If your bike has a small aluminum or chrome disc at the tank where the oil line goes in, just grab the disc with your fingers and pull it back. It is only held there by an o-ring to keep it from sliding down the oil line. Pull the line out a bit and move to side to allow you to slip the length of clear tubing over the line. Put the other end of the clear tubing in your scavenge oil bucket.

Step 7: Start the engine and run for about 10 seconds, then shut engine off. This is to purge the oil supply line from the tank, to the pump, then to the filter.

Step 8: Now is the time to remove and change the engine oil filter. Install whatever brand of oil filter you prefer on the engine at this time.

Step 9: Top off the oil tank again.

Step 10: Start the engine and monitor how much oil is going into the scavenge bucket. Notice how black it is at first. Around 30 seconds or so, it will start to lighten in color as it goes through the tubing. You should have collected somewhere around 24-32 ounces of dirty oil in the bucket. Shut off the engine.

Step 11: Remove the clear tubing from the oil line. Install the oil return line back into the oil tank. You will hear/feel a click as the line snaps back into the connector.

Step 12: Top off the oil tank.

That's all there is to it and now you have completely fresh oil in your engine.

 

+1 on the punch.

 

Is there a pdf. download for the owners manual anywhere? Do you guys know if the oil level is checked by pushing the dip stick all the way down? Thanks!