Originally Posted by RIPSAW

Mine have the MS o-ring plug that has a 5/8 hex with a 3/16 allen in it on the engine and transmission. I have a long allen wrench which I use. I stick a 6" long piece of paper towel cardboard roll up between the shocks and put the allen wrench thru it. That way the transmission oil does not dump on the shocks. My primary is a small allen NPT pipe plug that requires teflon tape.

Originally Posted by Falcon195

On late model touring and softails the proper torque spec for all three drain plugs is 14 to 20 ft pounds. But if you go over 14 or so it seems you have tendency to rip the orings on the plug. So for that reason I tighten my drain plugs to 14.5 ft pounds

Originally Posted by threadstopper

just draining the tank leaves 24 to 32 oz of dirty oil in the engine, here is
a procedure to get all the dirty oil out, and not cost much at all.

To start with, Lisle Tools, and probably others make the tooling to remove your oil line quick connect. Check this link for Lisle-- http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=604
These can be purchased from your local Sears store also for around $10.
Also says on the packaging that you can purchase the 3/8" tool (PN 37050) separately (replacement tool) from the complete set from Lisle..

You will also need a length of 3/8" clear tubing that you will put over your oil return line, and a small bucket, preferably with ounces marked on the outside so you can see how much oil you have collected.

A typical scavenge type oil change might go something like this:

Step 1: Run the engine for a bit to get it up to temperature

Step 2: Block up the jiffy stand or use something to get your bike reasonably level.

Step 3: Remove plug from bottom of oil tank. Drain oil into container.

Step 4: Install drain plug and replace o-ring if it is torn. If it is still in good condition, reuse.

Step 5: Top off oil tank with fresh oil up to the full mark on the dipstick.

Step 6: Use the quick connect tooling and remove the oil return line from the oil tank. It is the one closest to the filler neck on the tank. If your bike has a small aluminum or chrome disc at the tank where the oil line goes in, just grab the disc with your fingers and pull it back. It is only held there by an o-ring to keep it from sliding down the oil line. Pull the line out a bit and move to side to allow you to slip the length of clear tubing over the line. Put the other end of the clear tubing in your scavenge oil bucket.

Step 7: Start the engine and run for about 10 seconds, then shut engine off. This is to purge the oil supply line from the tank, to the pump, then to the filter.

Step 8: Now is the time to remove and change the engine oil filter. Install whatever brand of oil filter you prefer on the engine at this time.

Step 9: Top off the oil tank again.

Step 10: Start the engine and monitor how much oil is going into the scavenge bucket. Notice how black it is at first. Around 30 seconds or so, it will start to lighten in color as it goes through the tubing. You should have collected somewhere around 24-32 ounces of dirty oil in the bucket. Shut off the engine.

Step 11: Remove the clear tubing from the oil line. Install the oil return line back into the oil tank. You will hear/feel a click as the line snaps back into the connector.

Step 12: Top off the oil tank.

That's all there is to it and now you have completely fresh oil in your engine.

Originally Posted by soft 02

All 3 plugs are a 5/8 socket to remove.